
Untrustus–Photographed by Ben Lamberty (Klaus Stiegemeyer), Julius Gerhardt of The Special and Spin model Charlotte Bos make for intriguing subjects in a story that tackles daring fashions. Born of another planet, the pair are clad in silver and black for a futuristic feat styled by Ariane Lindhorst (BiGoudi). / Grooming by Sina Velke (BiGoudi).

Gangster Lore–Looking to the days of prohibition for the inspiration of his second outing for John Galliano, creative director Bill Gaytten honed in on characters, ranging from gangsters and the law establishment to American sports-stars. Empowered by the stigma of a gangster, the collection was off to a strong start with oversize silhouettes ushering in the double-breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turning to references by J.C Leyendecker and Norman Rockwell, the baggy trousers of America’s infamous kingpins were closely followed by Gaytten’s notorious band of henchmen. Youthful, cold and belted in for a showdown with the law, the menacing were met with hues of army green, dressing the aviator jacket, a military jacket, complete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the middle of the two factions and bringing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, revealing a polished evening wardrobe, sequined and generally more fitted.

The Fashion Landscape–In search of the season’s inspiration, Louis Vuitton turns their attention to the life of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez. A convergence of motifs of the seventies and eighties, the fall/winter 2012 collection comes together seamlessly with suiting, much like their peers playing a significant role in the dynamics of the range. Found outside tailored bliss that brushes upon double-breasted coats in camel, duo-toned suiting and pin-striped trousers, the renowned fashion house gravitates towards a more comfortable experience with blankets on sale, price tag and all, being paraded as fantastically draped coats with the Louis Vuitton monogram in plain sight. Taking the fashion capitals by storm, from Paris to Tokyo, the Louis Vuitton collection wraps up nicely with varied influences that blend sartorial genius with creative success.

Changing Agenda–Treading closer to the conservative rulebook, Mugler takes a more streamlined approach to the fall/winter 2012 season. Gravitating towards the suit as the collection’s core base, a better aptitude for wearable garments is executed but a bold spirit still remains. Cast in black, burgundy and midnight blue, the man of Mugler is placed at a crossroads. While several jackets, capes and other fine items show a hand at tailoring and fine fit, others tend to mask substance with style. With silk and worked fabrications making their debut and dissecting designs, Mugler is at once a foot forward with interest, but a mixed signal when arriving at a cohesive union of style, construction and intent.

Structurally Sound–Designer Italo Zucchelli delivers another technical lineup for Calvin Klein Collection’s fall/winter 2012 season. Combining elements of relaxed tailoring with a sporty attitude, long boxy silhouettes distinguish outerwear, cut from leather and nylon. Insulated for the cold, quilted jackets join a range of layered short-sleeved tops, paired with sweaters. Dressed with geometric graphics, the collection eventually makes a departure from the modern classics for an edgy touch of leather, adorning pants and blazer jackets for a strong finish.

Excess to Light–Frankie Morello takes their man on a journey for the fall/winter 2012 season. Showing the latest collection in three different stages, a moment of excess represents hectic city life, complete with materialism. Richly adorned, tapered suiting sets the ground work for an exploration of self, translated into subtle gradients followed by exotic prints. Paired with charming boots, a more casual wardrobe emerges as shorts, shirting and lightweight jackets make a bold move against the season cool. Evolving into the utmost stage of simplicity, colors and prints eventually give way to a more quiet dimension, illustrating the season’s final canvas.

Mother Agency: TheSpecial.Org
Julius Gerhardt had his breakout moment when he landed the cover of one of the leading men’s fashion magazine, Vogue Hommes Japan. Shot by Josh Olins and styled by Nicola Formichetti, his memorable cover and feature spread propelled him to the forefront of everyone’s attention. Julius has also graced the cover of another popular Japanese magazine, Pen.