Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
Little House of Horrors–Gather a high voltage chair, a splash of the macabre and the American sportsman and you have Thom Browne’s latest creation. Stuffed into Browne’s little gray suit, a steroid-induced man appeared with bulging shoulders against a petite alter ego, infused with punk. While sweaters, cut from mohair made for a giant-sized impression, studs and safety pins decorated seams and hems. Injecting the varsity jacket with volume, classic standbys were treated to a whimsical retreat into the dark corners of Browne’s creative genius. Juxtaposed with mid-riff baring tops and garments in watermelon green and pink, the idea of classic menswear was torn to shreds and presented as Thom Browne’s latest fantasy, in some aspects wearable but at large a stirring gesture to sit back and take in.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
L’Essentiel–Retaining a reserved elegance for the fall/winter 2012 season, Hermès creative director Veronique Nichanian kept to a dark color palette in which the fabrications did the talking. With impeccable construction, in a sea of somber suiting and outerwear, pieces like a soft trench from leather created a wow factor when not embraced by sleek trousers as well as carryalls. Introducing hints of velvet and a smoky graphic towards the show’s end, Hermès latest collection played to the house’s conservative nature while also illustrating a natural luxe factor.
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
Gangster Lore–Looking to the days of prohibition for the inspiration of his second outing for John Galliano, creative director Bill Gaytten honed in on characters, ranging from gangsters and the law establishment to American sports-stars. Empowered by the stigma of a gangster, the collection was off to a strong start with oversize silhouettes ushering in the double-breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turning to references by J.C Leyendecker and Norman Rockwell, the baggy trousers of America’s infamous kingpins were closely followed by Gaytten’s notorious band of henchmen. Youthful, cold and belted in for a showdown with the law, the menacing were met with hues of army green, dressing the aviator jacket, a military jacket, complete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the middle of the two factions and bringing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, revealing a polished evening wardrobe, sequined and generally more fitted.
Viktor & Rolf Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week
The House of Shape–Heading into the fall/winter 2012 season, Viktor & Rolf channel the Eastern Bloc for a serious collection with its share of the design duo’s acclaimed quirk. Serving a buffet of leather offerings, from trousers to overalls, it is the outerwear that steals the show in a season, strong on shape. Constructed and fitted to perfection, smart layers showcase different proportions at work. From boxy to sleek and svelte, menswear classics are given edge with boxy shoulders making a strong impact among practical pieces.
Ports 1961 Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
Playing Fashion–Moschino’s knack for bold prints and colors collides with a traditional sense of menswear for a penetrating collection. Opening the show with bowler hats as well as suiting and tees printed with cobblestones, the season resonated with a nostalgic London flair. Making the gentleman relevant, the trappings of the distinguished blended with a cheeky use of wardrobe dissection for a new chapter. From patches on pants to exposed jacket seams, Moschino’s man was deconstructed and rebuilt, before emerging with vibrant colors and graffiti prints that lend refined elegance a quirky undertone.
nicolas ripoll
Mother Agency: Bananas (Paris)
