The Boys of Fashion Milano by Livia Alcalde

06 February 2012, written by Jen

Nights You Crave–Photographer and cinematographer Livia Alcalde directs an intimate portrayal of the boys at Fashion Milano. The amorous cast includes Paul Boche, Elvis Jankus, Kim Dall’Armi, Adam Prucha, Michael Penquitt, Emilio Flores, Gianluca A., Sasha Weissenborn, Joseph Turnbull, Justus, Lewis Grant, Ole Syrstad, Raf, Richie Cotterell, Ivan Noda, Dorian Jespers, Rafal Stoczynski, Michael Kroeber, Alexander Kjellevik, Stefano Sala, Paulo Piton, Ben Stone, Jonatan Frenk, Linus Gustin, Sokol, Henrik Wallden, Bart van Maanen, Jay Zan, Fredric Johansson, Aaron Elliott and Simon Cesar.

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Paul Smith Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



The Calm Before the Storm–Basking in hues of blue and black, Paul Smith sends his men out to sea for his fall/winter 2012 collection. Capturing the iridescent quality of water, various fabric finishes gave the range depth as Smith executed easy garments with a subtle twist. Layering fluorescent colors with darker counterparts, the algae of the sea was translated into a novel idea, while anchors and various sea creatures gave life to charming collection accents.

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Damir Doma Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



The Journey–Damir Doma’s loose silhouettes are treated to an exotic makeover, courtesy of an expedition that takes in rich prints and lush fabrics for the new season. Adorned with beads and dressed in tribal prints, Doma’s man reigned supreme with a certain entrapment. Belting jackets and layering with loose overcoats, sharp ensembles packed quite the bold punch before trimming down for a blackout. Turning to a quiet and focused dimension, militant garments filled a void for the fitted. Demonstrating a hand for both structure and swift draping, Damir Doma’s latest collection married the subdued to the extravagant for a striking fall/winter 2012 outing.

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Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

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Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Psychedelic Elegance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten collection, prints really spoke great volumes this season. Taking Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lending him an attitude befitting of music artist Frank Zappa, the season was Van Noten’s canvas. Keeping fall’s inspirations on a tight leash, the backbone of the collection was entrusted to sharp overcoats and pleated trousers, narrow and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came exciting prints in vivid colors. Dressing sweaters and pants for a psychedelic reemergence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud statement, but also delivered charm subtly with finer print motifs and luxurious fabrications such as velvet driving his effortless elegance home.

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