Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
The Active Uniform–Treading a fine path for the fall/winter 2012 season, Tim Coppens turns to the film Drive for inspiration. Filtering menswear fundamentals through a course, associated with racing and hockey, tailoring is relaxed and moods varied. Optioning fitted trousers and a more laidback silhouette, found in jogging pants, casual and formal identities coexist. The grounding force to knitwear and jackets, a sporty aesthetic is adapted for Coppen’s new uniform. Sleeves are zippered, leather insets embraced and strong lines incorporated for a detailed finish to an evolving season.
Y-3 Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
Translating Travels–Laying out carpets for eclectic travels, Y-3’s youth geared up for an adventurous fall/winter 2012 showing. With less attention on the obvious sports appropriateness of the label and more focus on tapping into Yohji Yamamoto’s unique design aesthetic, relaxed silhouettes opened the door to romantic layers. Blended with an urban twist, baggy fits culminated in accessible garments decorated with engaging prints. Built on a range of billowing trousers, casual shirts played the laid-back companion piece to jackets and coats, constructed as that perfect finishing piece. From structured blazers accented with printed strips to a jacket, cut from buttery soft leather or an oversize boxy coat, Y-3 approached the season with a cool aptitude, delivering a contemporary flair, laced with a stylish finesse.
Robert Geller Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
English Punk–Finding the inspiration of his latest collection while listening to early eighties post-punk band The Sound, Robert Geller decided to usurp the classic English mode of style for a vehicle to further push his signature design standards. A war of the loose and fitted, the mild manners of the gentleman and the rash tendencies of youth meshed together for a delightful showing. Tackling various interpretations of knickers, casual sweats and voluminous trousers were brought forth for a lively showing. Armed with prints and the occasional splash of bold color, Geller’s collection highlighted a dynamic range of garments as usual. Whether crafting a cozy grandpa’s cardigan or a belted coat, the lineup served up coveted pieces with smart details. Amongst tonal color blocking, short-sleeved cable-knits and dip-dyed fabrics, Robert Geller’s fall showing ushered in a season of sophisticated but energetic pieces.
Siki Im Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
Athleticism for the Style Aficionado –Siki Im revisits school days with a new collection that draws its inspiration from the gym. Donning sweatbands and sneakers, the men of Siki Im hit the gymnasium turned runway with a lineup that juxtaposed the fun sporty motif with accessible garments. The parka was turned out in an oversize boxy cut, channeling the victory lap of a champion with room for more delicate pieces like a fantastic long cable-knit sweater, furnished in black. Meanwhile, leggings, sweats and layered pants made the perfect companion to variations on the letterman jacket. Blending suiting with sportswear, the overall results were nothing short of genius. Presenting the best of both worlds, Siki Im’s fall collection tailored to the interests of the creative while resonating the fundamental ideas of menswear.
Billy Reid Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
Southern Charm–A polished fall outing from Billy Reid details the whims of the modest gentleman looking for all the right pieces with a special charm. Furnished in lush fabrications with impeccable details, fall layers provide for the quaint and rugged. Employing a lineup of semi-fitted trousers alongside tweed outerwear, cashmere sweaters and sharp shirting, a new wardrobe is fleshed out with complete trimmings. Accented with fur and accessorized with the chance carryall or leather footwear, Billy Reid’s collection prompts the continuance of a sound perspective that puts the timeless hero first, whether its tailored suiting or knitwear, ready to be worn in.
Rag & Bone Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
The Rugged Dandy–Approaching the fall/winter 2012 season, Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright took hold of the dandy and roughed him up with a wild eye for the unkempt outdoors. Infiltrated by woodsy sentiments, fine tailoring took on a utilitarian purpose, juxtaposed with details of the modern age. Lasered fabrications and satin linings joined carefully placed leather inclusions for a notion of today’s designs. Meanwhile, relaxed trousers as well as heavy coats of wool tied into a London romanticism that is indifferent to time. A subtle twist of menswear fundamentals, the collection as a whole fueled a space for classic ideas with a hint of experimental fodder aimed at the season.
philipp bierbaum
Mother Agency: Next Company (Austria)
Philipp Bierbaum shot to fame when he became the face of D&G and Gianfranco Ferre for Fall/Winter 2009. He was also featured in Rad Hourani’s online campaign in the same season. He appeared in an editorial for W Magazine September 2009 alongside Lara Stone, photographed by Mert & Marcus. This Austrian force continued to dominate the pages of Numéro Homme, Wallpaper, V and GQ Italia. Philipp has walked for YSL, Trussardi, Prada, Gianfranco Ferre, D&G, Z Zegna and John Galliano, amongst others.
