
If a generous use of color and prints account for anything, Ann Demeulemeester is in high spirits for the fall 2011 season. Armed with beautiful finishes, the Belgian designer peppered her tendency for black with vibrant bolts of red and striking prints. Creating a poignant showing, Demeulemeester’s man reached a new point of elegance with sharp defined edges and a distinct season must-have – gauntlet gloves. Deconstructing the dinner jacket and painting it in brilliant colors such as midnight blue, Demeulemeester also added a fantastic trouser with a whisper of color. An expert at romance, Ann Demeulemeester has managed to elevate her craft to a new level for one of fall’s most refined collections.

Kenzo creative director Antonio Marras looks to detective stories for the inspiration of fall’s smart collection. Fusing both formal and casual styles, the Kenzo man is put together with a little fun and mystery. From the highbrow detective and mischievous villain to the common civilian, Marras’ collection comes together with a quaint British sensibility. Bringing the scholar out to play, printed knits join the collection’s consistent core of jackets that provide structure as well as a relaxed outing. Turning to fine leather, boots add a rebellious edge, while kilts add an old touch made new. Altogether a meshing of various characters with intensive personalities, the new Kenzo collection offers a wardrobe for many a man come the fall 2011 season.

Inspired by Russian dancer Rudolf Nureyev, John Galliano put various influences to work to the tune of Fiddler on the Roof. Prepped for a cold winter, Galliano layered dashing outerwear with tweed and twine while furs made quite the rich accent. Meanwhile, leggings and knitwear prompted the role of the dancer while lavish embellishments as well as velvet brought the drama in rich jackets. From the weary immigrant and the divine dancer to the luxe gentleman, John Galliano brought forth the theatrics in tenfold but as usual, strong pieces held up for a coveted fall season.

Following a rebellious bleached season, Dries Van Noten returns to form with a new collection boasting formal aspirations. Juxtaposing ornate embellishments with grounded neutrals, Van Noten embraces a relaxed silhouette for a lax approach to luxury. Outside the impromptu fur and zipper accents, the range takes distinct shape around billowing trousers as well as the unexpected but welcomed inclusion of chunky knits. At large, fall’s collection takes Dries Van Noten’s knack for tailoring and combines it with voluminous silhouettes for an outing that maintains a certain sophistication, while also embracing a chic comfort.

Viktor & Rolf begin at the basics for their new menswear collection. From undergarments and the clean white shirt to trousers, the latest from the designing duo quickly takes shape around the tailored fundamentals. Evolving a simple concept into a pattern dressed wardrobe, crafted from the blending of quilting and subtle prints, Viktor & Rolf furnishes a minimalist lesson with a timeless skill.

Frankie Morello manages to surprise once more, taking their eclectic tastes on a subdued yet colorful journey for the fall season. Taking to throws and wraps, stripes and prints cover the usually provocative Morello boy for a refreshing change of pace. Exercising a penchant for tailored suiting and juxtaposing it with the warmth of worldly fashions, the Italian label creates a fantastic collection, ready for a quick transition from editorials to reality.

Mother Agency: Next Company (Austria)
Philipp Bierbaum shot to fame when he became the face of D&G and Gianfranco Ferre for Fall/Winter 2009. He was also featured in Rad Hourani’s online campaign in the same season. He appeared in an editorial for W Magazine September 2009 alongside Lara Stone, photographed by Mert & Marcus. This Austrian force continued to dominate the pages of Numéro Homme, Wallpaper, V and GQ Italia. Philipp has walked for YSL, Trussardi, Prada, Gianfranco Ferre, D&G, Z Zegna and John Galliano, amongst others.