Richard Chai Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
The Utilitarian–Cinching his men into parkas and jackets with hooded attachments, Richard Chai prepared for quite the cold season. Capturing fall in a sea of silhouettes, both fitted and relaxed, tailoring met function as Chai crafted a wardrobe of varying proportions. Wearable but still tapped into the whims of the adventurous man, timeless cuts afforded to outerwear such as the overcoat were in sync with more bold ventures that included a cropped jacket. Altogether blending an idea of loungewear with a more formal figure, Richard Chai came out on top with a conservative showing that highlighted items that men can grasp onto and love … taking a baseball jacket or beloved sweater along for the ride, season to season.
Nicholas K Fall/Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week
Edge on the Western Front–Lending their layered cool a fresh new edge, Nicholas K visited the west for the inspiration of their fall/winter 2012 collection. Crafting their own Man of Black, but sure to include their signature penchant for fleshed out neutrals, a tough exterior was brought forth with strong outerwear. Structured and lined, the shining moment to many an ensemble, coats were weaved in as the perfect companion to a wide array of knitwear. While a couple of pieces were loosely draped with toggles, more traditional pieces offered bouts of classic menswear for the highly accessible wardrobe. Treated with cowl necks and accessorized with leather holsters as well as hats, Nicholas K’s latest collection debuted with an impressive charm that saw the brand demonstrating the elasticity of their welcomed aim at a consistent aesthetic that marries function to style.
New York Model Management Fall/Winter 2012 Show Package
New York Model Management–Among the usual suspects who have proven to be casting favorites, ranging from Alexander Johansson and Philipp Bierbaum to Charlie France, New York Model Management gets a fresh boost this season with several hot commodities fresh off the runway from Milan and Paris. Racking up shows left and right this month, Andrey Smidl comes out on top as one to watch, followed by new faces Onnys Aho, Todd Taylor and Jordan Postrel.
Ports 1961 Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.
Canali Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
Classic Flair–Italian label Canali goes the way of London for a swinging collection of sartorial proportions. Kicking off the show with a banker chic approach to fashion, pinstriped suiting and overcoats set the tone for a well-informed throwback. Transitioning to a casual change of pace, suede and corduroy made an easy impact with paisley prints joining the foray in the form of jackets and trousers.
Etro Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week
High Ambitions–Ready for new heights, designer Kean Etro looked to the mystical Pegasus as the starting point of his latest collection. Marrying the extravagant use of feathers to Etro’s signature prints, the rich affair brought forth quite the avid imagination. Beginning the show with eveningwear, monotone brocade gave way to not only richer prints, but feathers turned out as jackets, scarves, ties and other pieces. From the dark palette of gray and black to a sampling of the warm sun’s rays, Etro explored the color spectrum, even going as far as a fiery red. From overcoat and vest to shoes, the devil was in the details. Masterfully mixing prints and textures, the collection was presented with personality, depth and ultimately the fine qualities of the modern-day gentleman.
philipp bierbaum
Mother Agency: Next Company (Austria)
Philipp Bierbaum shot to fame when he became the face of D&G and Gianfranco Ferre for Fall/Winter 2009. He was also featured in Rad Hourani’s online campaign in the same season. He appeared in an editorial for W Magazine September 2009 alongside Lara Stone, photographed by Mert & Marcus. This Austrian force continued to dominate the pages of Numéro Homme, Wallpaper, V and GQ Italia. Philipp has walked for YSL, Trussardi, Prada, Gianfranco Ferre, D&G, Z Zegna and John Galliano, amongst others.
