
Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961’s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.

Scholarly Days–Dsquared² designers Dan and Dean Caten send their boys back to school for the fall/winter 2012 season. Bringing smarts to their signature staples, loosely slung denim was paired with light layers consisting of leather jackets, sweatshirts, button-downs and sweater vests. Accessorized with newsboy hats, duffels and backpacks, the season’s theme was a no-brainer. From goody two shoes prep to the sartorial bad boy, Dsquared² packed an easy punch with a relaxed wardrobe that eventually transitioned into more polished garments. Still applying their own handiwork to eveningwear, denim and sequins collided for a cheeky finish.

Sleeper Fashion–Honing in on worldy fashions, Nicole Farhi arms their man with loungewear suitable for long travel. Contrasting a dark color palette against a fun seasonal motif, long silhouettes and a plenitude of fits are showcased. Whether serving up tunic-inspired shirting from the East or novel prints from the tropics, Nicole Farhi dishes a somber but playful affair.

Total Look–Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier aimed to complete a total look for this season’s collection. Examining proportions and fit from head to toe, the latest range came together as final products, a couple of steps removed from the initial inspiration source. Playing exquisitely with graphic shapes in this aspect, complementary colors melded together as abstract shapes dissected Maier’s alto familiar canvas. However, taking a step into the future, a little rebellion surfaced with treated finishes and a hint of leather, being pieced together for outerwear adornments and eventually the season’s standout trousers.

The Don of the Season–Layered in lush knits and grand outerwear, the man of Les Hommes makes his way back to the catwalk. Following a cultured getaway, color, print and volume paint an image of refinement with a daring undertone. While leather garments contribute to a modern hard streak, softness is delivered in the form of sweaters in vibrant hues. Relating the tension of fit and volume, large oversize sleeves taper for a distinct visage. Meanwhile, trousers are tapered and relaxed for the appropriate note to an eclectic collection that seamlessly juxtaposes fine suiting with charming knitwear.

I Love Models Management–Boasting one of Milan’s largest men’s boards, complete with its fill of recognizable talent, casting directors easily have their hands full when it comes to I Love Models Management’s fall/winter 2012 show package. Beginning with classic favorites, I Love brings forth Lenz Von Johnston, Chad White and others, while in the new face department there is Louis Mayhew, Jacob Morton as well as additional talents of interest. Peppered with a recent talent explosion, there is the in-demand Bastiaan van Gaalen or Lanvin dancing man, Milo Spijkers. Bringing up the notables with Brazilian regular Douglas Neitzke or intriguing developing talent Hampus Lück, I Love Models Management has the winning formula to quite the busy fashion week.

Robbie Wadge walked an impressive eleven shows for the Fall/Winter 2009 season, instantly making him one of the regulars on the runway. This young Brit has been featured in campaigns for Topman, Wooyoungmi, Paul Smith and United Colors of Benetton. Robbie has also appeared in countless editorials including Dazed & Confused, Vogue Hommes Japan, Electric Youth!, Prada’s Fantasy Lookbook, and even graced the cover of Hero Magazine’s debut issue.