
Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

The Dark Arts–Rick Owens’ man finds himself somewhere in between fencing and racing for the designer’s latest chapter. Kicking off the season with fitted ensembles, high-waist trousers made the perfect companion to narrow tops, cut to perfection. Moving on to suiting as a more traditional turn for Owens, jackets were fastened with one button for an asymmetrical close, while the fit on trousers indicated a subtle shift in the collection. Embracing a wider silhouette for trousers and readying the runway for his beloved work with leather, a cropped jacket appeared with a fantastic silhouette, that gained momentum against later voluminous looks that employed quilting and other techniques for a strong dark finish.

Sleek Epiphany–Deconstructing menswear staples and restructuring garments for a layered autumn feat, Costume National Homme delivers a dark collection for the fall/winter 2012 season. Playing with proportions and textures, the collection’s identity is drawn from a rebellious attitude that is sure to get notice. Turning out a sporty take on the blazer, a cropped fitted number with minimal detail makes for the quintessential aspect of modernity, followed by unlikely pieces paired together that make for phenomenal looks. From a sharp overcoat, layered over a zippered turtle neck to paneled attachments, blending the woven with more polished fabrications, Costume National Homme remains true to their heritage, revealing a collection with the utmost ease yet a desirable cool.

The Right Fit–Going behind the scenes at Neil Barrett’s casting for the fall/winter 2012 season, photographer Sara Cimino steals a moment or two. With Clement Chabernaud, Simon Kotyk, Harry Goodwins, Charlie Timms and Paul Boche along for the ride, fitting Barrett’s tailored suit is one must for a season’s booking.

I Love Models Management–Boasting one of Milan’s largest men’s boards, complete with its fill of recognizable talent, casting directors easily have their hands full when it comes to I Love Models Management’s fall/winter 2012 show package. Beginning with classic favorites, I Love brings forth Lenz Von Johnston, Chad White and others, while in the new face department there is Louis Mayhew, Jacob Morton as well as additional talents of interest. Peppered with a recent talent explosion, there is the in-demand Bastiaan van Gaalen or Lanvin dancing man, Milo Spijkers. Bringing up the notables with Brazilian regular Douglas Neitzke or intriguing developing talent Hampus Lück, I Love Models Management has the winning formula to quite the busy fashion week.

Major Paris–A culmination of established stars and new talents on the rise come together for Major Paris’ show package for the fall/winter 2012 season. At the forefront is Lenz Von Johnston, Gucci’s current model pick as well as Adrian Wlodarski, who easily finds the catwalk a second home. Rising in the ranks is former fresh face Jesse Shannon, who has been gaining great momentum over the last quarter with steady editorials. Add to the mix new standouts like Simon Van Meervenne and the wheels are in motion for positive results. From the it factor of Jamie Wise to the undeniable star power of Paolo Roldan, Major Paris is on track to another great season.