
Baja Style–Ralph Lauren looks to the spirit of Cape Cod juxtaposed with a Bohemian flair for their spring/summer 2012 Denim & Supply outing. Adding promising up and comer Hampus Lück to last season’s cast of Christian Brylle, Randy Lebeau and Thiago Santos, the lineup is perfectly portrayed with an artisan touch. From soft washed fabrics and a stealth nautical motif to an eclectic array of separates, Denim & Supply executes a relaxed collection of smart pieces.

Ol’ Santa Fe–Adapting his prepster uniform with the typical cheek one has come to expect of Band of Outsiders, designer Scott Sternberg visited the southwest for the inspiration of his latest showing. Set under the watercolor painted sky, Sternberg’s platoon came out to play with all their smarts on display. From evening wear to daily essentials, a collection dressed in rich hues and accented with Navajo-inspired prints delighted. Sleepy loungewear provided the quiet counterpart to more polished numbers, rounded out by blazers, crewneck sweaters and fitted shirting. Meanwhile, corduroy reared its head with pants and jackets adding to a classic Americana image. Incorporating quilting and shearling, carefully constructed outerwear added a tough exterior to more gentle touches such as tassel adorned knitwear. Altogether mixing garments of a subdued mood with louder statement pieces, Band of Outsiders delivered their finely tailored aesthetic with a splash of southwestern nostalgia to color the season.

New York Model Management–Among the usual suspects who have proven to be casting favorites, ranging from Alexander Johansson and Philipp Bierbaum to Charlie France, New York Model Management gets a fresh boost this season with several hot commodities fresh off the runway from Milan and Paris. Racking up shows left and right this month, Andrey Smidl comes out on top as one to watch, followed by new faces Onnys Aho, Todd Taylor and Jordan Postrel.

The Taming of the Kid–agnès b. was in fine form this season. Executing a more precise collection than seasons past, commercial intent reigned, dialing down the quirky for a delightful outing with youthful fundamentals. Cleaned up for the season, suiting dressed in plaid and autumn hues provided for the season’s strong core. Tailored trousers, sometimes cuffed were pleated and cut at the ankle. Jackets came in the one-button and double-breasted variety with a sharp shirt and tie combo to finish off a look that was more professional. Meanwhile, the antics were not absent with leggings and shorts delivering great charm, when complemented by cropped capes, draped tunics and other bold pieces.

Raw Sophisticate–Yohji Yamamoto has always possessed the fine ability of being able to take honest garments and lend them a regal spirit, whether cut from luxurious fabrications or crafted on the mend with anything but riches on the mind. The fall/winter 2012 season is no different. Somehow, Yamamoto creates a romantic figure of his man, dressing down his signature loosely fitted suiting with oversize wraps in muted earth tones. Enjoying a little humor with floppy pipe top hats, a subtle cheeky image is juxtaposed with the somber mood, created by outerwear boasting militaristic insignia. Belonging to the same varied world, elegance is abound with coats baring gold buttons, prim white neck ties and an interesting take on the London banker. Altogether the perfect style palette for the season, Yamamoto once again excels with an aesthetic that once again feels fresh.

New Kids on the Block — Day three of this season two of exclusive ‘Casting Call Diaries’ series for The Fashionisto took me from Givenchy to Jil Sander via Cerruti 1881 and Issey Miyake … The sun was back and the guys in a good mood, perfect conditions to snap several established names (Lowell Tautchin, Jakob Wiechmann, Isaac Carew, Linus Gustin, Philip Huang, RJ King, Lucas Mascarini, Adrien Brunier, etc.), but also tons of young blood (Kim Kraglund, Benjamin Eidem, Frederik Tölke, Simon Van Meervenne, Dorian Jespers, etc.) and newcomers to watch such as Arthur, Simon Sabbah, Wilson, Leo Tileman, Dimitris Alexandrou, Maxim Popov, Raf Cross, Ollie Mann, Noud Egberts or Jordan Burman to name only a few … Highlights of the day : Mark Westinghouse going wall-climbing for me and Maïda Grégory-Boïna allowing me to document her casting for Jil Sander right from the inside; they deserve a special mention … look out for the next episode !

Thiago Santos made his runway debut closing Z Zegna in Spring/Summer 2010. He became a favorite of Kris Van Assche, appearing in his show as well as in Dior Homme. He became the face of Dior Homme for Fall/Winter 2009, photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. Thiago has walked for Thom Browne, Hermes, Junya Watanabe and Y-3. This Brazilian became one of the faces of American Eagle for Spring/Summer 2010.