Paul Smith Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



The Calm Before the Storm–Basking in hues of blue and black, Paul Smith sends his men out to sea for his fall/winter 2012 collection. Capturing the iridescent quality of water, various fabric finishes gave the range depth as Smith executed easy garments with a subtle twist. Layering fluorescent colors with darker counterparts, the algae of the sea was translated into a novel idea, while anchors and various sea creatures gave life to charming collection accents.

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Ann Demeulemeester Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

22 January 2012, written by Carl



Cool Formalities–Ann Demeulemeester ignited the season’s flame, coloring her black and white palette with electric blue and fiery red. Opting for more edge than romance this time around, formal overcoats were elongated and pieced together with shirting, adorned with printed gradients. Embracing a svelte figure, long tunics appeared as a simple but strong completion to semi-fitted pants and fantastic boots.

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Kenzo Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

21 January 2012, written by Carl



The Kenzo Workday–Playing it safe for their debut collection, new Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, revealed a season right off the conveyor belt. Decorated in bright, youthful prints, the tailored trappings of the Kenzo man came out to play. From fitted quilted jackets and laid-back sweatshirts to the odd knickknacks, sportswear fueled the collection. Honing in on a relaxed aesthetic that achieved a balance of casual sophistication and novelty, Lim and Leon represented the quirky sentiments of the classic man.

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Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

20 January 2012, written by Carl



Psychedelic Elegance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten collection, prints really spoke great volumes this season. Taking Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lending him an attitude befitting of music artist Frank Zappa, the season was Van Noten’s canvas. Keeping fall’s inspirations on a tight leash, the backbone of the collection was entrusted to sharp overcoats and pleated trousers, narrow and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came exciting prints in vivid colors. Dressing sweaters and pants for a psychedelic reemergence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud statement, but also delivered charm subtly with finer print motifs and luxurious fabrications such as velvet driving his effortless elegance home.

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Costume National Homme Fall/Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

14 January 2012, written by Carl



Sleek Epiphany–Deconstructing menswear staples and restructuring garments for a layered autumn feat, Costume National Homme delivers a dark collection for the fall/winter 2012 season. Playing with proportions and textures, the collection’s identity is drawn from a rebellious attitude that is sure to get notice. Turning out a sporty take on the blazer, a cropped fitted number with minimal detail makes for the quintessential aspect of modernity, followed by unlikely pieces paired together that make for phenomenal looks. From a sharp overcoat, layered over a zippered turtle neck to paneled attachments, blending the woven with more polished fabrications, Costume National Homme remains true to their heritage, revealing a collection with the utmost ease yet a desirable cool.

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