
Combative Fashion–Following an impressive showing for his namesake, Kris Van Assche returned to the runway for his latest collection for Dior Homme. Another inspiring lineup for the season, Van Assche let the focus on tailoring take a backseat with a fully fleshed out motif that emphasized sportswear with a militaristic flair. Hidden under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the runway with a strong stance on suiting, giving way to more relaxed pieces. Donning low slung trousers and oversize outerwear, cut to maximize powerful movement, garments in an army green gave the season a life dramatically different from previous collections. Playing with shearling, piping and technical fabrics, crisp combative silhouettes were at once fresh, marking a successful overall outing for Dior Homme.

The Workforce–Showing one of his strongest collections to date, Belgian designer Kris Van Assche turned to world affairs to take hold of his latest inspiration. Casting the banker and the working class as his characters of the season, Van Assche took his steadfast penchant for suiting to a new dimension. Evoking a certain elegance that felt fresh, men of a romantic imagination breezed by the catwalk. For an element so frequently referred to, Van Assche’s turn to the workerswear aesthetic prompted a regal quality when blended with his skills in construction and draping. Relaxed trousers, cut to a fine art floated by while more frequented items like the bomber jacket felt decisively urban. Juxtaposed with knits that fell like a dream, in a season with so much focus on suiting, Kris Van Assche’s fall/winter 2012 collection executed the fundamental with such ease and difference.

Psychedelic Elegance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten collection, prints really spoke great volumes this season. Taking Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lending him an attitude befitting of music artist Frank Zappa, the season was Van Noten’s canvas. Keeping fall’s inspirations on a tight leash, the backbone of the collection was entrusted to sharp overcoats and pleated trousers, narrow and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came exciting prints in vivid colors. Dressing sweaters and pants for a psychedelic reemergence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud statement, but also delivered charm subtly with finer print motifs and luxurious fabrications such as velvet driving his effortless elegance home.

Boy Joy–Photographer and cinematographer Christopher Starbody takes us backstage at the Unconditional spring/summer 2012 show during London Fashion Week. Starbody captures a handful of mirthful and lively familiar faces including James Smith, Malthe Lund Madsen, Leebo Freeman, Philip Milojevic, Yuri Pleskun and more as they make the most of it backstage.

Boys, Boys, Boys–For my second day of this new exclusive ‘Casting Call Diaries’ series for The Fashionisto, I chased models across Paris from Haussmann buildings by the Chicissime Avenue Montaigne and Avenue de L’Opéra to some more industrial photo studios in more popular districts; out of a slightly ambitious program of eight castings I managed to cover six : Dior Homme, Mugler, Louis Vuitton, Arnys, Yohji Yamamoto and Alexis Mabille … This journey proved to be pretty intense behind the camera due to the amount of models who would never miss giving it a chance at castings for such major shows even if they have to carry an umbrella, but granted me to pin to my list of daily trophies the likes of Yuri Pleskun, rising star Bapstiste Radufe, Nicolas Ripoll, Matvey Lykov, Douglas Neitzke, Lyle Lodwick, Corey Baptiste, Paul Boche, Victor Nylander, Alexander Johansson, Juan Manuel Arancibia, Alexander Beck, Julien Chanca etc, some newer faces such as Andrea Bellisario, Timmi Radicke, Julius Gerhardt, Jay or Noma Han for instance and even the freshest first timers you can imagine : Justus Eisfeld (who doesn’t even have a paris agency yet) or Isaac Ekblad (who came to Paris to visit his family and was only discovered today by an agency scout as he was walking in the street !) … Also snapped were designers Romain Kremer (Mugler) and Alexis Mabille … check this space for more to come very soon !

True Romance–Request model Yuri Pleskun joins Meghan Collison for a story in the most recent Vision China. Photographed by Michael Donovan with styling by Katie Burnett, a relaxed atmosphere paves the way for candid moments/ Hair by Shawn Mount @ ArtList, Makeup by Fara @ ArtList.

One of the models with the most editorial work, Yuri Pleskun got his big break after being featured in Topman’s spring 2009 campaign. His career has taken off ever since and he can now be seen in magazines such as Vogue Hommes Japan, AnOther Man, Vogue Italia and 10 Men. He has also starred in campaigns for Marc by Marc Jacobs, Margaret Howell, Juicy Couture and most recently Balenciaga with Gisele Bundchen.