Rick Owens Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Dark Arts–Rick Owens’ man finds him­self some­where in between fenc­ing and rac­ing for the designer’s lat­est chap­ter. Kick­ing off the sea­son with fit­ted ensem­bles, high-​​waist trousers made the per­fect com­pan­ion to nar­row tops, cut to per­fec­tion. Mov­ing on to suit­ing as a more tra­di­tional turn for Owens, jack­ets were fas­tened with one but­ton for an asym­met­ri­cal close, while the fit on trousers indi­cated a sub­tle shift in the col­lec­tion. Embrac­ing a wider sil­hou­ette for trousers and ready­ing the run­way for his beloved work with leather, a cropped jacket appeared with a fan­tas­tic sil­hou­ette, that gained momen­tum against later volu­mi­nous looks that employed quilt­ing and other tech­niques for a strong dark finish.

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Yohji Yamamoto Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Raw Sophis­ti­cate–Yohji Yamamoto has always pos­sessed the fine abil­ity of being able to take hon­est gar­ments and lend them a regal spirit, whether cut from lux­u­ri­ous fab­ri­ca­tions or crafted on the mend with any­thing but riches on the mind. The fall/​winter 2012 sea­son is no dif­fer­ent. Some­how, Yamamoto cre­ates a roman­tic fig­ure of his man, dress­ing down his sig­na­ture loosely fit­ted suit­ing with over­size wraps in muted earth tones. Enjoy­ing a lit­tle humor with floppy pipe top hats, a sub­tle cheeky image is jux­ta­posed with the somber mood, cre­ated by out­er­wear boast­ing mil­i­taris­tic insignia. Belong­ing to the same var­ied world, ele­gance is abound with coats bar­ing gold but­tons, prim white neck ties and an inter­est­ing take on the Lon­don banker. Alto­gether the per­fect style palette for the sea­son, Yamamoto once again excels with an aes­thetic that once again feels fresh.

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Mugler Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Chang­ing Agenda–Tread­ing closer to the con­ser­v­a­tive rule­book, Mugler takes a more stream­lined approach to the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Grav­i­tat­ing towards the suit as the collection’s core base, a bet­ter apti­tude for wear­able gar­ments is exe­cuted but a bold spirit still remains. Cast in black, bur­gundy and mid­night blue, the man of Mugler is placed at a cross­roads. While sev­eral jack­ets, capes and other fine items show a hand at tai­lor­ing and fine fit, oth­ers tend to mask sub­stance with style. With silk and worked fab­ri­ca­tions mak­ing their debut and dis­sect­ing designs, Mugler is at once a foot for­ward with inter­est, but a mixed sig­nal when arriv­ing at a cohe­sive union of style, con­struc­tion and intent.

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Ports 1961 Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Play­ing Shapes–Ports 1961 design­ers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hyl­ton pull together a metic­u­lous col­lec­tion focus­ing on sharp lines, con­struc­tion and vary­ing pro­por­tions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s lead­ing man lives up to the clas­sic image of Sav­ille Row. Don­ning double-​​breasted suits and clad in out­er­wear, cut with a min­i­mal­ist hand, Ports 1961’s gen­tle­man embraces a smooth sea­son that plays tai­lored tra­di­tion against play­ful explo­ration. From nar­row, well-​​framed jack­ets to a final roundup of volu­mi­nous coats, Ports 1961 intro­duces a sea­son of func­tion and spon­tane­ity for a mod­est success.

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Diesel Black Gold Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Raw Ele­gance–Mak­ing the move to Milan for their Ital­ian debut, Diesel Black Gold returned to the clean-​​cut path, lend­ing clas­sic stand­bys a youth­ful edge. Bring­ing together gar­ments with unfin­ished hems, thick cable knit sweaters and pleated trousers, a vari­ety of pieces were revealed for a new wardrobe of unlikely com­pan­ions. Dress­ing jacket and vest com­bos in ver­ti­cal stripes and includ­ing the biker jacket as a wel­comed addi­tion, Diesel Black Gold brought their vision full cir­cle with a por­trayal of time­less ele­gance, mod­i­fied for today’s generation.

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Giorgio Armani Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

New World–Look­ing to bring a new dimen­sion to his cel­e­brated vision on tai­lored clas­sics, Gior­gio Armani revamped the stan­dard sil­hou­ette, embrac­ing stretch fab­rics and loose fits for fall’s col­lec­tion. Accent­ing a famil­iar black and gray palette with bursts of bright blue, Armani’s man was imme­di­ately sharp, but relaxed as sep­a­rates made the move between tra­di­tional and mod­ern. While vel­vet pants bal­looned in shape, only to fall into a tapered fin­ish, the double-​​breasted jacket was at once laid-​​back. Alto­gether a seam­less mix of two worlds, Gior­gio Armani’s fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion turned out a phe­nom­e­nal show­ing that pit­ted impec­ca­ble con­struc­tion against bold design.

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