
Worldly Fascination–Mathieu Kassovitz film La Haine, Jason Evans exhibition W’Happen and a dissection of European dress serve as the creative foundation to Christopher Shannon’s fall/winter 2012 collection. Looking outside the confines of the United Kingdom, foreign staples are reinterpreted for Shannon’s take on sportswear. From jacquard knitwear derived from supermarket window graphics in Paris to bandana prints inspired by American music artist Snoop Dogg, the collection takes possession of varied references, including singer Sinéad O’Connor and turns out a hodgepodge of modern styles. Affecting a uniform of bombers, shirting, joggers and other relaxed separates, a splash of trim and character go a long way in propelling a lineup ridden with personality and ease.

Quacks & Suits–Agi & Sam layered on their signature humor for their recent London Fashion Week showing. Revolving their fall/winter 2012 collection around Darwin’s Theory of Why the Chicken Crossed the Road, the men of Agi & Sam hit the catwalk battered and bruised but in the utmost style. With ducks and chickens as their fun design motif, serious menswear fundamentals were infused with a lightness of the heart. Combining intricate prints with interesting proportions, today’s fitted suit was dissected for a play on volume as well as separates. Juxtaposed with a British sensibility on steroids, delicious colors and prints aided a showing strong on substance and cheer. / Photos by Saty + Pratha.

Fun, Games & Shock–Explosive colors, patterns and shapes burst forth with J.W. Anderson’s latest showing during London Fashion Week. Bringing an eccentric taste palette to the season, Anderson’s fall/winter 2012 collection reads as the insane intersection between an idea of retro perfection and future utopia with a sportswear vibe thrown in for good measure. Turning up the dial and holding no barres, commitment goes a long way as mesh collarless jackets are matched by crewneck sweaters with a larger than life windowpane print. Meanwhile, trousers in interesting fabrications bare a fantastically awkward flair. Continuing an attention garnering dialogue, quilting takes center stage, ushering in a range of jackets, skirts, pants and accessories. Zany to say the least, underneath the contained chaos, Anderson pulls off a choice selection of clothes, particularly outerwear, cutting wonderful silhouettes for the fall.

Earth Matter–Looking to the work of Canadian photographer Edward Burtynsky for inspiration, James Long found a rocky reference after revisiting Quarries. Translating stones and debris into a fantastic collection starting point with fine textures and rich colors, Long delivered a visual treat. Hip and youthful, the range’s first signature marker belonged to low slung trousers, crafted in voluminous fits. Paired with paneled outerwear, many fabrications and prints came together, creating subtle gradients and worn factions. Weaving in a knit like no other, Long’s trademark made a strong impression with delicately executed pieces offering a fierce point of view, whether paired with a tasselled scarf or constructed as a minimal twinset. Altogether, a cool effort for the designer, the collection proved a success, exuding a unique effortless attitude, complemented by excellent continuity and workmanship.

Minimal Unrest–Disrupting the lines of Patrik Ervell’s trademark suiting, disruption set in with the label’s hero striking a chord for rebellion. Weaving in garments that surprisingly gave the collection an urban edge, Ervell’s man marched on as quilted outerwear took up the part of protective gear and technical fabrics caved into the modern age. Echoing militant sentiments with pieces swaying from structured and fitted to loose, a range that included sharp shirting, a grounded series of trousers and an evolving array of jackets stole the show, setting the tone for a serious fall with an eye for strong style.

English Rooting–Looking for the foundation of his fall/winter 2012 collection, Simon Spurr turned to images of London by Robert Frank. Taking into account early twentieth century style and heading down a modern course, references that include Tommy Nutter’s reinterpreted suit of the 1960’s come into play as Spurr dissects suiting for a relevant edge. Bringing together rich burgundy, brown, navy and other solid colors for a collection dressed in plaids and tweeds, subtle updates were introduced. From leather trousers and a magnified hounds tooth print to a signature penchant for fabric insets, Simon Spurr’s latest efforts resulted in a sound showing, highlighting a sartorial flair juxtaposed with modern sentiments.