Rag & Bone Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

The Rugged Dandy–Approach­ing the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Rag & Bone design­ers David Neville and Mar­cus Wain­wright took hold of the dandy and roughed him up with a wild eye for the unkempt out­doors. Infil­trated by woodsy sen­ti­ments, fine tai­lor­ing took on a util­i­tar­ian pur­pose, jux­ta­posed with details of the mod­ern age. Lasered fab­ri­ca­tions and satin lin­ings joined care­fully placed leather inclu­sions for a notion of today’s designs. Mean­while, relaxed trousers as well as heavy coats of wool tied into a Lon­don roman­ti­cism that is indif­fer­ent to time. A sub­tle twist of menswear fun­da­men­tals, the col­lec­tion as a whole fueled a space for clas­sic ideas with a hint of exper­i­men­tal fod­der aimed at the season.

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Tommy Hilfiger Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

March­ing For­ward–The men of Tommy Hil­figer marched to a dif­fer­ent beat for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Trad­ing in the Amer­i­can prep that Hil­figer has become so syn­ony­mous with, the lav­ish col­lec­tion read as a rich set off the run­ways of Europe. Bring­ing together bur­gundy and black, leather and shear­ling, Tommy Hil­figer was sim­ply rav­ish­ing. Armed with an aris­to­cratic flair, deli­cious tex­tiles deliv­ered a sharp arse­nal of arrest­ing pieces. Acces­sorized with leather rid­ing gloves, the show kicked off with tai­lored jack­ets and coats, func­tional and ready to be trans­formed at a moment’s notice, cour­tesy of tear away details. Cham­pi­oning the leather inset and bring­ing the elbow patch to the front for a divinely mod­ern look, the devil was in the details. From pleated trousers and sleeve detail­ing to a fetch­ing palette of muted tones, Tommy Hil­figer cre­ated an army for the mod­ern age, bring­ing the ulti­mate lux­ury to the Amer­i­can stage.

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Richard Chai Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

The Util­i­tar­ian–Cinch­ing his men into parkas and jack­ets with hooded attach­ments, Richard Chai pre­pared for quite the cold sea­son. Cap­tur­ing fall in a sea of sil­hou­ettes, both fit­ted and relaxed, tai­lor­ing met func­tion as Chai crafted a wardrobe of vary­ing pro­por­tions. Wear­able but still tapped into the whims of the adven­tur­ous man, time­less cuts afforded to out­er­wear such as the over­coat were in sync with more bold ven­tures that included a cropped jacket. Alto­gether blend­ing an idea of loungewear with a more for­mal fig­ure, Richard Chai came out on top with a con­ser­v­a­tive show­ing that high­lighted items that men can grasp onto and love … tak­ing a base­ball jacket or beloved sweater along for the ride, sea­son to season.

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Duckie Brown Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Bliss­ful May­hem–Fol­low­ing a somber sea­son, Duckie Brown design­ers Daniel Sil­ver and Steven Cox weave their quirky nar­ra­tive back into the col­lec­tion, inject­ing the season’s sil­hou­ettes with vol­ume. Offer­ing up a per­verted take on the gen­tle­man, tai­lored double-​​breasted jack­ets are pre­sented along­side baggy trousers and dressed in bold plaid prints. Latch­ing on to elon­gated shirt­ing once more, length­ened gar­ments enjoy a relaxed bounty. Cul­mi­nat­ing in a dark palette with a strict uni­form, Duckie Brown rein­ter­prets for­mal wear for the mod­ern man with ease on the mind.

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Nicholas K Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Edge on the West­ern Front–Lend­ing their lay­ered cool a fresh new edge, Nicholas K vis­ited the west for the inspi­ra­tion of their fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion. Craft­ing their own Man of Black, but sure to include their sig­na­ture pen­chant for fleshed out neu­trals, a tough exte­rior was brought forth with strong out­er­wear. Struc­tured and lined, the shin­ing moment to many an ensem­ble, coats were weaved in as the per­fect com­pan­ion to a wide array of knitwear. While a cou­ple of pieces were loosely draped with tog­gles, more tra­di­tional pieces offered bouts of clas­sic menswear for the highly acces­si­ble wardrobe. Treated with cowl necks and acces­sorized with leather hol­sters as well as hats, Nicholas K’s lat­est col­lec­tion debuted with an impres­sive charm that saw the brand demon­strat­ing the elas­tic­ity of their wel­comed aim at a con­sis­tent aes­thetic that mar­ries func­tion to style.

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Ado Les Scents Fall/​Winter 2012

Another Day, Another Life–Ado Les Scents designer Hyun Yeu draws his lat­est inspi­ra­tion from George Orwell’s novel, 1984. The 1949 book details a soci­ety under the rule of an oli­garchic dic­ta­tor­ship. Forced together as an anony­mous mass to live for the col­lec­tive good, indi­vid­u­al­ity is a crime and thoughts are under sur­veil­lance. Trans­lat­ing this dark exis­tence into an autumn out­ing, Ado Les Scents turns to a somber col­lec­tion where tai­lored clas­sics are given sub­tle mod­ern updates for the con­stant sur­vey­ing eye. Fus­ing mil­i­tary influ­ences with gar­ments for the civil­ian, bright col­ors towards the collection’s end cham­pion indi­vid­u­al­ity while fab­rics such as water­proof cot­ton detail a care­ful exis­tence. Win­ter out­er­wear pro­tects against the ele­ments with gen­eral vol­ume and insu­la­tion while inner jack­ets that can be worn sep­a­rately pro­vide ease and acces­si­bil­ity. From the one-​​button blazer to trousers rolled above the ankle, Ado Les Scents presents a strict point of view with some­what leniency between the lines.

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