Cold Method Fall/​Winter 2012

Tai­lored Arrest–Using the polit­i­cal land­scape of the six­ties as the back­ground for their lat­est col­lec­tion, Cold Method turns an eye to the rebel­lious stu­dent activists, who were unapolo­getic about demand­ing their due place in a soci­ety, wholly cap­ti­vated by dated mores. At the same time adopt­ing an impec­ca­ble style of their own, Cold Method presents a young dis­tin­guished gen­tle­man. Dressed in a sea of sub­dued col­ors moti­vated by the black and white pho­tog­ra­phy of the time, a somber mind­set pro­vides an oppor­tu­nity for hints of rich bur­gundy and for­est green. Dressed to the t, but no stranger to a more relaxed mode of dress, trousers, v-​​neck sweaters and ties are mar­ried with func­tional jack­ets and out­er­wear, turned out with quilt­ing, color block­ing and more tra­di­tional appli­ca­tions of tai­lor­ing for a smart fall statement.

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Wood Wood Fall/​Winter 2012 | Berlin Fashion Week

The King­dom–Wood Wood con­tin­ues to travel the globe for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Leav­ing Los Ange­les behind and head­ing across the pond to Lon­don, the label arrives just as stu­dents are depart­ing uni. Absorb­ing the idea of a uni­form and spit­ting it back out in a fash­ion that is uniquely their own, the col­le­giate iden­tity is once again jux­ta­posed with a charm­ing per­son­al­ity. Shorts are lay­ered over leg­gings, semi-​​fitted out­er­wear are pro­duced a lit­tle off-​​center and the reformed beanie is shown as a token of the sea­son. Adorned with var­i­ous crests and prints, the casual infu­sion makes the rounds with an air of for­mal­ity and the com­fort of every­day dress.

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Gazzarrini Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Trav­el­ing Man–Gazzarrini’s lat­est col­lec­tion is pro­pelled by the trans­la­tion of imagery found in trav­els to Bruges. Fused with a nat­ural sar­to­r­ial finesse, gar­ments reflect their inspired envi­ron­ment with a chic ease. Tak­ing in the build­ings, the bricks, the angles, beloved prints dress sharp tai­lored wears. Cropped trousers are a work in them­selves with a high waist, low plung­ing crotch and cropped fin­ish. Paired with sculp­tural out­er­wear, sheep­skin, cash­mere and other final fab­ri­ca­tions con­tribute to a luxe on-​​pouring. Rounded out with intri­cate knitwear and a burst of hot pink, the Gaz­zarrini man is clas­sic but exhibits a cer­tain spon­tane­ity for the mod­ern age.

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Acne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Young Road to Lux­ury–Bring­ing Paris Fash­ion Week to a close, Swedish label Acne embarked on a col­li­sion course of young and old for a col­lec­tion that pep­pered the clas­sics with a free spirit. With lay­er­ing play­ing a key com­po­nent to the season’s wardrobe, inter­est­ing fab­ri­ca­tions were uti­lized. From quilted shirt­ing employed under­neath a boxy short-​​sleeved sweat­shirt to pleather worn with a for­mal over­coat, a rebel­lious qual­ity was achieved with great sub­tleties. Pil­ing on the sweaters and pro­duc­ing tops with vary­ing sleeve lengths for the ulti­mate com­bi­na­tion of pieces, Acne brought together tapered trousers, over­size blaz­ers as well as suit­ing shorts for a highly wear­able feat.

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Thom Browne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Lit­tle House of Hor­rors–Gather a high volt­age chair, a splash of the macabre and the Amer­i­can sports­man and you have Thom Browne’s lat­est cre­ation. Stuffed into Browne’s lit­tle gray suit, a steroid-​​induced man appeared with bulging shoul­ders against a petite alter ego, infused with punk. While sweaters, cut from mohair made for a giant-​​sized impres­sion, studs and safety pins dec­o­rated seams and hems. Inject­ing the var­sity jacket with vol­ume, clas­sic stand­bys were treated to a whim­si­cal retreat into the dark cor­ners of Browne’s cre­ative genius. Jux­ta­posed with mid-​​riff bar­ing tops and gar­ments in water­melon green and pink, the idea of clas­sic menswear was torn to shreds and pre­sented as Thom Browne’s lat­est fan­tasy, in some aspects wear­able but at large a stir­ring ges­ture to sit back and take in.

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Paul Smith Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Calm Before the Storm–Bask­ing in hues of blue and black, Paul Smith sends his men out to sea for his fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion. Cap­tur­ing the iri­des­cent qual­ity of water, var­i­ous fab­ric fin­ishes gave the range depth as Smith exe­cuted easy gar­ments with a sub­tle twist. Lay­er­ing flu­o­res­cent col­ors with darker coun­ter­parts, the algae of the sea was trans­lated into a novel idea, while anchors and var­i­ous sea crea­tures gave life to charm­ing col­lec­tion accents.

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