Christophe Lemaire Fall 2009

Christophe Lemaire’s body of work is a reminder of fashion’s true merit. Work­ing in a metic­u­lous man­ner to cre­ate mean­ing­ful, but acces­si­ble gar­ments, Lemaire deliv­ers a qual­ity story in care­ful chap­ters. Very rare for most design­ers, Lemaire designs with a con­tin­u­ous theme in play. Mar­ry­ing west­ern and east­ern sil­hou­ettes, each col­lec­tion is a grad­ual pro­gres­sion in achiev­ing some idea of the per­fect bal­ance. Ush­er­ing in the fall sea­son are boxy over­size cuts that meet Man­darin col­lars for a roman­ti­cized vision of robe-​​like out­er­wear. Painted in earthy pig­ments, this same note is car­ried through­out the collection’s shirt­ing and jacket options. Over­all, a strong exe­cu­tion of vary­ing inspi­ra­tions is com­plete with relaxed trousers that fall in an effort­less man­ner. Min­i­mal­ist and quiet – much like the col­lec­tion itself, Lemaire’s inclu­sion of the banded cum­mer­bund pro­vides not only the ideal com­ple­tion, but per­fect fall accessory.

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Campaign — Paul Smith Fall 2009

Stéphane Olivier and Lóris Krae­merh for the Paul Smith fall 2009 campaign

[I Love Mod­els Man­age­ment]

Week in Review: Over-​​plaid?

Despite Milan and Paris set­ting the scene for a spate of forth­com­ing Spring 2010 col­lec­tions, we became acquainted this past week with a var­ied array of releases avail­able for Fall 2009. While some hit the mark more than oth­ers, the col­lec­tions all seemed to be par­tic­i­pat­ing in a parade of plaid. The plaid, or tar­tan, pat­tern was all the rage last fall sea­son, seen in almost every run­way show — Bryan­Boy agreed — and we again just couldn’t escape it ear­lier this year in Milan. The lat­est Fall 2009 releases from such labels as the palin­dromic Kiryuyrik and Junya Watanabe’s self-​​titled eYe col­lec­tion with Comme des Garçons con­tinue the trend… is it time to acknowl­edge that plaid might be just a lit­tle overplayed?

Kiryuyrik Fall 2009

Designer Masakatsu Takayanagi — a for­mer pat­tern maker at Yohji Yamamoto — seems to have made a game of incor­po­rat­ing almost every cur­rent move­ment in fash­ion in his lat­est release under Kiryuyrik. There are sheen fab­rics, tas­sels and bondage-​​inspired strap­pings, leather boots, a touch of androg­yny in the form of kilts and fur… It comes, then, as no sur­prise that, hav­ing seen plaid aplenty dur­ing the fall 2009 col­lec­tions show­cased ear­lier this year, Takayanagi is more than happy to hedge his bets and embrace the tar­tan trend.

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Preview — Day Birger et Mikkelsen Campaign

Modelwerk’s Tobias Sørensen pho­tographed by Hasse Nielsen
for Day Birger et Mikkelsen’s fall 2009 campaign.

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Influence Fall 2009

Fus­ing streetwear with a high street approach to trends, the lat­est col­lec­tion from Influ­ence is a casual out­ing of immense style. From the casual hooded sweat­shirt to a chic long knit­ted cardi­gan and dap­per suit­ing, the col­lec­tion is an eclec­tic mix of every sta­ple the mod­ern man needs.

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Mr. Olive Fall 2009

Moved by tales of rov­ing artists and the his­toric Amer­i­can West, Mr. Olive’s fall col­lec­tion enti­tled “Motel Chron­i­cles” envi­sions a mod­ern trav­eler with nos­tal­gic flair. Find­ing inspi­ra­tion in the past, the collection’s col­ors are muted and low-​​key, rely­ing on fall’s nat­ural color asso­ci­a­tions – green, bur­gundy and brown. Falling within nor­mal pro­por­tions, sim­ple cuts relay a retro vibe. Never too slim or blown up to dra­matic pro­por­tions, the collection’s con­ve­nient out­er­wear and shirt­ing options embrace a func­tional look that is more about feel­ing com­fort­able than being on the cusp of tomorrow’s trends. How­ever, this fea­ture does not take away from a well-​​intentioned col­lec­tion that pays trib­ute to the rugged sen­si­bil­ity of man.

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