Campaign — D&G Fall 2009
Danny Schwarz, Govan Baird, Jakob Hybholt, Philipp Bierbaum and Issa Tomaleh photographed by Mario Testino for D&G fall 2009 campaign.
Campaign — Hugo Boss Black
Lars Burmeister for Hugo Boss Black
[Models]
Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2009 Campaign
Adam Senn, Cory Bond, David Gandy, Jesus Luz, Julien Quévenne and Noah Mills photographed by Steven Klein at Gleason’s Gym in Brooklyn for Dolce & Gabbana’s fall 2009 campaign.
Week in Review: Androgyny’s Trajectory
Lina Österman Fall 2009
This past week saw a spate of Fall 2009 collections which, cumulatively, did little to disrupt the recent trends in men’s fashion: if they’re not going for black, then they’re going for androgyny. Given I have a bias in favour of both movements (Sonny Groo is my style icon after all), I found a lot to admire in the last 7 days.
For starters, there’s Lina Österman’s second collection, which offers a sensibility vastly different from (the difference being adventure) that of Pudel, where she plays Creative Director.
Her collection has been criticized a little on Coûte Que Coûte for essentially pandering to the whims of fashion bloggers, failing to re-interpret the supposedly hackneyed concepts of lace, shredding and, well, black. Moving past the notion that black will never go out of style (even if we’d like it to), I think there is some merit in what Österman has on show. For one, she plays with expectations. She avoids the timeworn addition of epaulets and instead uses leather to define the shoulders; she provides us with shredding and sheerness in places that, wait for it, might actually be appropriate; and she embellishes denim, rather than tearing it. Where Österman succeeds most, though, is in her restraint. The collection embraces a Gothic flair without ever descending into the wild, less accessible (but perhaps more interesting?) theatre that gothicism often thrives on. (That doesn’t mean we didn’t love this over at Contributing Editor.)
Campaign — Gianfranco Ferré Fall 2009
Philipp Bierbaum photographed by Stefano Moro for
Gianfranco Ferré’s fall 2009 campaign
“Wireless Mind” — Fugahum Fall 2009
Japanese-based label Fugahum represents a post World War II generation living in a fictitious country loosely based on Japan. Viewing darker periods as a test of the human will, it is the motivation behind finding new values. Using fashion as a compelling vehicle of art, Fugahum creates a new self-representation of its designers, Akiyoshi Mishima, Asuka Yamamoto and Takao Mishima. Their fall collection takes the rigid nature of the suit and challenges its role and function by finding ways to infuse it with gaiety and modernity. A stark serious palette of black, silver and navy are juxtaposed with bold jovial prints and interesting silhouettes. On the other hand, shorts and leggings find their harmony, while trousers are playfully adorned with fringe. It is to Fugahum’s credit that they can make all these elements work in such a tasteful, yet alluring way.
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