Topman Design Fall/​Winter 2012 | London Fashion Week

After Mid­night–Tak­ing a dark turn, Top­man Design chan­nels a young Patti Smith and Robert Map­plethorpe for their fall/​winter 2012 out­ing. Mix­ing and mesh­ing rich tex­tures for a rebel­lious sea­son, a tra­di­tional Eng­lish sen­si­bil­ity is jux­ta­posed with a rel­a­tive edge. Alter­nat­ing between tapered trousers and pants of PVC, Topman’s hero demon­strates a knack for clean dress with a mod­ern spin. Trans­lat­ing Mapplethorpe’s lily print into graphic dressed silk shirt­ing, the fin­ish­ing touch to a col­lec­tion of lush knits and struc­tured out­er­wear is a range of rosaries, crafted by Husam El Odeh.

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New York Model Management Fall/​Winter 2012 Show Package

New York Model Man­age­ment–Among the usual sus­pects who have proven to be cast­ing favorites, rang­ing from Alexan­der Johans­son and Philipp Bier­baum to Char­lie France, New York Model Man­age­ment gets a fresh boost this sea­son with sev­eral hot com­modi­ties fresh off the run­way from Milan and Paris. Rack­ing up shows left and right this month, Andrey Smidl comes out on top as one to watch, fol­lowed by new faces Onnys Aho, Todd Tay­lor and Jor­dan Postrel.

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Acne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Young Road to Lux­ury–Bring­ing Paris Fash­ion Week to a close, Swedish label Acne embarked on a col­li­sion course of young and old for a col­lec­tion that pep­pered the clas­sics with a free spirit. With lay­er­ing play­ing a key com­po­nent to the season’s wardrobe, inter­est­ing fab­ri­ca­tions were uti­lized. From quilted shirt­ing employed under­neath a boxy short-​​sleeved sweat­shirt to pleather worn with a for­mal over­coat, a rebel­lious qual­ity was achieved with great sub­tleties. Pil­ing on the sweaters and pro­duc­ing tops with vary­ing sleeve lengths for the ulti­mate com­bi­na­tion of pieces, Acne brought together tapered trousers, over­size blaz­ers as well as suit­ing shorts for a highly wear­able feat.

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Thom Browne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Lit­tle House of Hor­rors–Gather a high volt­age chair, a splash of the macabre and the Amer­i­can sports­man and you have Thom Browne’s lat­est cre­ation. Stuffed into Browne’s lit­tle gray suit, a steroid-​​induced man appeared with bulging shoul­ders against a petite alter ego, infused with punk. While sweaters, cut from mohair made for a giant-​​sized impres­sion, studs and safety pins dec­o­rated seams and hems. Inject­ing the var­sity jacket with vol­ume, clas­sic stand­bys were treated to a whim­si­cal retreat into the dark cor­ners of Browne’s cre­ative genius. Jux­ta­posed with mid-​​riff bar­ing tops and gar­ments in water­melon green and pink, the idea of clas­sic menswear was torn to shreds and pre­sented as Thom Browne’s lat­est fan­tasy, in some aspects wear­able but at large a stir­ring ges­ture to sit back and take in.

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Damir Doma Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Jour­ney–Damir Doma’s loose sil­hou­ettes are treated to an exotic makeover, cour­tesy of an expe­di­tion that takes in rich prints and lush fab­rics for the new sea­son. Adorned with beads and dressed in tribal prints, Doma’s man reigned supreme with a cer­tain entrap­ment. Belt­ing jack­ets and lay­er­ing with loose over­coats, sharp ensem­bles packed quite the bold punch before trim­ming down for a black­out. Turn­ing to a quiet and focused dimen­sion, mil­i­tant gar­ments filled a void for the fit­ted. Demon­strat­ing a hand for both struc­ture and swift drap­ing, Damir Doma’s lat­est col­lec­tion mar­ried the sub­dued to the extrav­a­gant for a strik­ing fall/​winter 2012 outing.

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Kenzo Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Kenzo Work­day–Play­ing it safe for their debut col­lec­tion, new Kenzo cre­ative direc­tors Carol Lim and Hum­berto Leon, revealed a sea­son right off the con­veyor belt. Dec­o­rated in bright, youth­ful prints, the tai­lored trap­pings of the Kenzo man came out to play. From fit­ted quilted jack­ets and laid-​​back sweat­shirts to the odd knick­knacks, sports­wear fueled the col­lec­tion. Hon­ing in on a relaxed aes­thetic that achieved a bal­ance of casual sophis­ti­ca­tion and nov­elty, Lim and Leon rep­re­sented the quirky sen­ti­ments of the clas­sic man.

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