New York Model Management Fall/​Winter 2012 Show Package

New York Model Man­age­ment–Among the usual sus­pects who have proven to be cast­ing favorites, rang­ing from Alexan­der Johans­son and Philipp Bier­baum to Char­lie France, New York Model Man­age­ment gets a fresh boost this sea­son with sev­eral hot com­modi­ties fresh off the run­way from Milan and Paris. Rack­ing up shows left and right this month, Andrey Smidl comes out on top as one to watch, fol­lowed by new faces Onnys Aho, Todd Tay­lor and Jor­dan Postrel.

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Hermès Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

L’Essentiel–Retain­ing a reserved ele­gance for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Her­mès cre­ative direc­tor Veronique Nichan­ian kept to a dark color palette in which the fab­ri­ca­tions did the talk­ing. With impec­ca­ble con­struc­tion, in a sea of somber suit­ing and out­er­wear, pieces like a soft trench from leather cre­ated a wow fac­tor when not embraced by sleek trousers as well as car­ryalls. Intro­duc­ing hints of vel­vet and a smoky graphic towards the show’s end, Her­mès lat­est col­lec­tion played to the house’s con­ser­v­a­tive nature while also illus­trat­ing a nat­ural luxe factor.

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Dior Homme Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Com­bat­ive Fash­ion–Fol­low­ing an impres­sive show­ing for his name­sake, Kris Van Ass­che returned to the run­way for his lat­est col­lec­tion for Dior Homme. Another inspir­ing lineup for the sea­son, Van Ass­che let the focus on tai­lor­ing take a back­seat with a fully fleshed out motif that empha­sized sports­wear with a mil­i­taris­tic flair. Hid­den under caps and shades, the men of Dior took to the run­way with a strong stance on suit­ing, giv­ing way to more relaxed pieces. Don­ning low slung trousers and over­size out­er­wear, cut to max­i­mize pow­er­ful move­ment, gar­ments in an army green gave the sea­son a life dra­mat­i­cally dif­fer­ent from pre­vi­ous col­lec­tions. Play­ing with shear­ling, pip­ing and tech­ni­cal fab­rics, crisp com­bat­ive sil­hou­ettes were at once fresh, mark­ing a suc­cess­ful over­all out­ing for Dior Homme.

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Kris Van Assche Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Work­force–Show­ing one of his strongest col­lec­tions to date, Bel­gian designer Kris Van Ass­che turned to world affairs to take hold of his lat­est inspi­ra­tion. Cast­ing the banker and the work­ing class as his char­ac­ters of the sea­son, Van Ass­che took his stead­fast pen­chant for suit­ing to a new dimen­sion. Evok­ing a cer­tain ele­gance that felt fresh, men of a roman­tic imag­i­na­tion breezed by the cat­walk. For an ele­ment so fre­quently referred to, Van Assche’s turn to the work­er­swear aes­thetic prompted a regal qual­ity when blended with his skills in con­struc­tion and drap­ing. Relaxed trousers, cut to a fine art floated by while more fre­quented items like the bomber jacket felt deci­sively urban. Jux­ta­posed with knits that fell like a dream, in a sea­son with so much focus on suit­ing, Kris Van Assche’s fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion exe­cuted the fun­da­men­tal with such ease and difference.

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Louis Vuitton Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Fash­ion Land­scape–In search of the season’s inspi­ra­tion, Louis Vuit­ton turns their atten­tion to the life of fash­ion illus­tra­tor Anto­nio Lopez. A con­ver­gence of motifs of the sev­en­ties and eight­ies, the fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion comes together seam­lessly with suit­ing, much like their peers play­ing a sig­nif­i­cant role in the dynam­ics of the range. Found out­side tai­lored bliss that brushes upon double-​​breasted coats in camel, duo-​​toned suit­ing and pin-​​striped trousers, the renowned fash­ion house grav­i­tates towards a more com­fort­able expe­ri­ence with blan­kets on sale, price tag and all, being paraded as fan­tas­ti­cally draped coats with the Louis Vuit­ton mono­gram in plain sight. Tak­ing the fash­ion cap­i­tals by storm, from Paris to Tokyo, the Louis Vuit­ton col­lec­tion wraps up nicely with var­ied influ­ences that blend sar­to­r­ial genius with cre­ative success.

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Ports 1961 Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Play­ing Shapes–Ports 1961 design­ers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hyl­ton pull together a metic­u­lous col­lec­tion focus­ing on sharp lines, con­struc­tion and vary­ing pro­por­tions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s lead­ing man lives up to the clas­sic image of Sav­ille Row. Don­ning double-​​breasted suits and clad in out­er­wear, cut with a min­i­mal­ist hand, Ports 1961’s gen­tle­man embraces a smooth sea­son that plays tai­lored tra­di­tion against play­ful explo­ration. From nar­row, well-​​framed jack­ets to a final roundup of volu­mi­nous coats, Ports 1961 intro­duces a sea­son of func­tion and spon­tane­ity for a mod­est success.

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