Z Zegna Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

State of Trans­for­ma­tion–Craft­ing a min­i­mal­ist col­lec­tion for the sea­son, Z Zegna cre­ative direc­tor Paul Sur­ridge chan­neled the 1920’s with an ampli­fied focus on shape. Cre­at­ing a core of nar­row sil­hou­ettes for sharp suit­ing, the col­lec­tion branched out with over­size out­er­wear, cut dra­mat­i­cally and fea­tur­ing large detail­ing. A tes­ta­ment to impec­ca­ble pro­por­tions, fall’s lineup weaved its way in between shapes, wide and nar­row, cre­at­ing great con­trast and inter­est. Trans­form­ing gar­ments like the shirt jacket, leather made its intro­duc­tion with rich color and spon­tane­ity, only met by treated mohair. Alto­gether focused, Surridge’s show­ing for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son cul­mi­nated in easy gar­ments given the lux­u­ri­ous makeover in terms of con­struc­tion, fit and style.

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Daniele Alessandrini Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Sar­to­r­ial Lay­er­ing–Daniele Alessan­drini looks to smart lay­er­ing for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Tak­ing the twin­set and rein­ter­pret­ing it for out­er­wear, clever jack­ets remain light-​​weight but warm with a blan­ket lin­ing. Sub­tly mix­ing prints, an autumn land­scape con­tributes to the image of a man on the go with suit­ing and casu­al­wear blend­ing together for one cohe­sive wardrobe. From the strong field jacket to clas­sics like the duf­fle coat, Daniele Alessan­drini remains rel­e­vant for the mod­ern man with an offer­ing of tra­di­tion and trend.

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Bottega Veneta Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Total Look–Bot­tega Veneta cre­ative direc­tor Tomas Maier aimed to com­plete a total look for this season’s col­lec­tion. Exam­in­ing pro­por­tions and fit from head to toe, the lat­est range came together as final prod­ucts, a cou­ple of steps removed from the ini­tial inspi­ra­tion source. Play­ing exquis­itely with graphic shapes in this aspect, com­ple­men­tary col­ors melded together as abstract shapes dis­sected Maier’s alto famil­iar can­vas. How­ever, tak­ing a step into the future, a lit­tle rebel­lion sur­faced with treated fin­ishes and a hint of leather, being pieced together for out­er­wear adorn­ments and even­tu­ally the season’s stand­out trousers.

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John Varvatos Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Urban Rock–Designer John Var­vatos spins a tale of the streets and rock for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Embody­ing a cer­tain harsh­ness in com­par­i­son to last season’s roman­tic laments, Var­vatos taps into an ele­ment of youth. Bring­ing together gar­ments in an almost reck­less fash­ion, the mood is relaxed and the results more excit­ing. While lace­less boots barely come to a close, over­size out­er­wear in var­i­ous hues of gray bring com­fort to knits as well as other pieces, tat­tered and stained. Fea­tur­ing a wardrobe that pos­sesses the poten­tial to be both tidy and fan­tas­ti­cally disheveled, John Var­vatos dis­misses the aspect of age for a col­lec­tion that evolves with a lit­tle smarts.

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Burberry Prorsum Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

The Gen­tle­man–Pro­vid­ing the house’s her­itage with the focal point this sea­son, Burberry chief cre­ative offi­cer Christo­pher Bai­ley scales back on fall/​winter 2012’s motif for a onpour­ing of tai­lored wears fit for the con­tem­po­rary gen­tle­man. Grav­i­tat­ing towards gray, suits are toted out with quite the sig­na­ture acces­sories, cre­at­ing a sharp state of mind. From printed gloves to styl­ish umbrel­las, Bailey’s man misses no detail. Com­ple­ment­ing the sar­to­r­ial suit with lay­ered out­er­wear of vary­ing pro­por­tions, a mod­ern touch is show­cased along­side room for a spot of color, deliv­er­ing both a somber sen­si­bil­ity and an upbeat moment.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

The Busi­ness of Style–Ermenegildo Zegna tack­les the wardrobe of the pro­fes­sional for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. From board meet­ing to impromptu plane flight, an evening out or even the slopes on vaca­tion, Zegna’s man is ready for any occa­sion. While suit­ing dressed in a Prince of Wales print finds a clas­sic streak with strong lines, essen­tials like the trench are updated with soft leather accents and an over­size sil­hou­ette. Hon­ing in on the details, trousers with the cuff turned up reveal a printed lin­ing that rein­forces the collection’s fine atten­tion to style. As jack­ets are pre­pared for the cold with quilt­ing, chic num­bers like a loosely cut cape jacket res­onate well with Ermenegildo Zegna’s man who trans­verses the path between stead­fast tra­di­tion and play­ful modernity.

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