Paul Smith Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Calm Before the Storm–Bask­ing in hues of blue and black, Paul Smith sends his men out to sea for his fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion. Cap­tur­ing the iri­des­cent qual­ity of water, var­i­ous fab­ric fin­ishes gave the range depth as Smith exe­cuted easy gar­ments with a sub­tle twist. Lay­er­ing flu­o­res­cent col­ors with darker coun­ter­parts, the algae of the sea was trans­lated into a novel idea, while anchors and var­i­ous sea crea­tures gave life to charm­ing col­lec­tion accents.

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Dries Van Noten Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Psy­che­delic Ele­gance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten col­lec­tion, prints really spoke great vol­umes this sea­son. Tak­ing Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lend­ing him an atti­tude befit­ting of music artist Frank Zappa, the sea­son was Van Noten’s can­vas. Keep­ing fall’s inspi­ra­tions on a tight leash, the back­bone of the col­lec­tion was entrusted to sharp over­coats and pleated trousers, nar­row and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came excit­ing prints in vivid col­ors. Dress­ing sweaters and pants for a psy­che­delic reemer­gence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud state­ment, but also deliv­ered charm sub­tly with finer print motifs and lux­u­ri­ous fab­ri­ca­tions such as vel­vet dri­ving his effort­less ele­gance home.

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Viktor & Rolf Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The House of Shape–Head­ing into the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Vik­tor & Rolf chan­nel the East­ern Bloc for a seri­ous col­lec­tion with its share of the design duo’s acclaimed quirk. Serv­ing a buf­fet of leather offer­ings, from trousers to over­alls, it is the out­er­wear that steals the show in a sea­son, strong on shape. Con­structed and fit­ted to per­fec­tion, smart lay­ers show­case dif­fer­ent pro­por­tions at work. From boxy to sleek and svelte, menswear clas­sics are given edge with boxy shoul­ders mak­ing a strong impact among prac­ti­cal pieces.

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Ports 1961 Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Play­ing Shapes–Ports 1961 design­ers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hyl­ton pull together a metic­u­lous col­lec­tion focus­ing on sharp lines, con­struc­tion and vary­ing pro­por­tions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s lead­ing man lives up to the clas­sic image of Sav­ille Row. Don­ning double-​​breasted suits and clad in out­er­wear, cut with a min­i­mal­ist hand, Ports 1961’s gen­tle­man embraces a smooth sea­son that plays tai­lored tra­di­tion against play­ful explo­ration. From nar­row, well-​​framed jack­ets to a final roundup of volu­mi­nous coats, Ports 1961 intro­duces a sea­son of func­tion and spon­tane­ity for a mod­est success.

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Dsquared² Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Schol­arly Days–Dsquared² design­ers Dan and Dean Caten send their boys back to school for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Bring­ing smarts to their sig­na­ture sta­ples, loosely slung denim was paired with light lay­ers con­sist­ing of leather jack­ets, sweat­shirts, button-​​downs and sweater vests. Acces­sorized with news­boy hats, duf­fels and back­packs, the season’s theme was a no-​​brainer. From goody two shoes prep to the sar­to­r­ial bad boy, Dsquared² packed an easy punch with a relaxed wardrobe that even­tu­ally tran­si­tioned into more pol­ished gar­ments. Still apply­ing their own hand­i­work to evening­wear, denim and sequins col­lided for a cheeky finish.

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Canali Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Clas­sic Flair–Ital­ian label Canali goes the way of Lon­don for a swing­ing col­lec­tion of sar­to­r­ial pro­por­tions. Kick­ing off the show with a banker chic approach to fash­ion, pin­striped suit­ing and over­coats set the tone for a well-​​informed throw­back. Tran­si­tion­ing to a casual change of pace, suede and cor­duroy made an easy impact with pais­ley prints join­ing the foray in the form of jack­ets and trousers.

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