A.P.C. Fall 2009
Let’s be real. The last couple seasons have been a slippery slope for A.P.C. In an attempt to capture a wide and diverse audience, committing to a concept appears to have become less of a priority. Drifting farther away from a distinct look or concept, this season’s collection has become an incoherent range of pieces that are fine by themselves, but problematic when grouped. Take for instance, the band jacket with the brilliant toggles. It’s a wonderful piece, but how does it relate to the jumpsuit – the bleached denim or a nautical anchor? What story is A.P.C. trying to tell here? It is difficult to buy into a label when there is no logical path to discern. The Autumn themed color palette brings the ensembles together, yet still, the pieces just do not click. There is something off. Perhaps, we can hope for a return to a direction similar to that of fall 2007 – where a strong militaristic influence resulted in a cohesive collection of strong distinguishable pieces that were absolute must-haves. Here’s to subscribing to the notion of tough love in hope for what we know A.P.C. is capable of achieving.
New Arrivals — Jil Sander
If Raf Simons gets his way, we are a step away from the future of menswear. Although, Simons’ fall collection for Jil Sander is a far cry from the casual shopping trip, it does offer up a dose of adventure for the fearless. Venturing into the realm of unorthodox silhouettes, the latest collection is perfect for those who play the line between typical ready-to-wear and avant-garde fashion. Available at Oki-ni.
Campaign — Boyd & We Are Replay Fall 2009
Boyd Holbrook and Natalia Chabanenko photographed by Chad Pitman
for We Are Replay’s fall 2009 campaign (TFS)
sisii / Impossible Possibility Fall 2009
Impossible Possibility approaches the fall season with a monochromatic color palette and an aptitude for minimalist garments. However, the brand’s message is more complex than the constructs of its garments. Believing in a sense of fashion that encompasses many styles, Impossible Possibility is about creating something new. This idea is challenged by a harsh reality in which values and trends constantly change in the face of a society that cherishes free expression, while at the same time, encouraging a rigid uniformity.
Nicholas K Fall 2009
If this season has one dominant color, it is black. However, in the case of designer Nicholas Kunz, green is the new black. In a wise move, Kunz’s choice of fabrics, color, and cut continue to contribute to Nicholas K’s identity as the perfect example of rugged masculinity. However, this season sees change. The Nicholas K man still exudes a rugged sensibility, but has been softened and given gentle traits. Found among earth-toned outerwear with protruding oversized collars are pieces, more feminine in nature. Scarves with added sheen and cardigans that fit closer to the male form suggest a quiet transformation and acceptance of changing times, while cropped leggings/sweats act as a commitment to move forward.
POP cph Fall 2009
When it comes to POP cph, no season is overlooked. A couple weeks back, we took a look at the laid-back summer collection and now the Danish label prepares for fall. The benefit of working on a per season basis is that clothes are not expected to perform beyond their limits. Instead of heavy outerwear for cold winter days, POP cph focuses on the fall essentials that are cool enough for that lingering summer heat, yet warm enough for fall’s highs and lows. The hip collection flourishes with suiting subtly trimmed with metallic as well as fun basics like the Edie Sedgwick tee. With fall out of the way, we cannot wait to see what POP cph has in store for winter.
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