John Varvatos Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Urban Rock–Designer John Var­vatos spins a tale of the streets and rock for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Embody­ing a cer­tain harsh­ness in com­par­i­son to last season’s roman­tic laments, Var­vatos taps into an ele­ment of youth. Bring­ing together gar­ments in an almost reck­less fash­ion, the mood is relaxed and the results more excit­ing. While lace­less boots barely come to a close, over­size out­er­wear in var­i­ous hues of gray bring com­fort to knits as well as other pieces, tat­tered and stained. Fea­tur­ing a wardrobe that pos­sesses the poten­tial to be both tidy and fan­tas­ti­cally disheveled, John Var­vatos dis­misses the aspect of age for a col­lec­tion that evolves with a lit­tle smarts.

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Costume National Homme Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Sleek Epiphany–Decon­struct­ing menswear sta­ples and restruc­tur­ing gar­ments for a lay­ered autumn feat, Cos­tume National Homme deliv­ers a dark col­lec­tion for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Play­ing with pro­por­tions and tex­tures, the collection’s iden­tity is drawn from a rebel­lious atti­tude that is sure to get notice. Turn­ing out a sporty take on the blazer, a cropped fit­ted num­ber with min­i­mal detail makes for the quin­tes­sen­tial aspect of moder­nity, fol­lowed by unlikely pieces paired together that make for phe­nom­e­nal looks. From a sharp over­coat, lay­ered over a zip­pered tur­tle neck to pan­eled attach­ments, blend­ing the woven with more pol­ished fab­ri­ca­tions, Cos­tume National Homme remains true to their her­itage, reveal­ing a col­lec­tion with the utmost ease yet a desir­able cool.

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WhyNot Fall/​Winter 2012 Show Package

WhyNot–Mak­ing a cast­ing director’s job less dif­fi­cult, WhyNot pulls out all the stops with a con­sis­tent show­ing of irre­sistible options. As the last year has shown, David Gandy is unstop­pable – rack­ing up two major cov­ers and con­tin­u­ing to play a strong suit to Dolce & Gabbana’s image. Mean­while, there is Arthur Kulkov, a one fits all type of model and a blast to have around – fol­lowed by those stand­out edi­to­r­ial boys like Jacob Coupe and Alexan­der Johans­son, who eas­ily tran­si­tion from the run­way, walk­ing cov­eted spots for labels such as Prada to fronting cam­paigns for a myr­iad of brands. From Gar­rett Neff to Aiden Andrews and Adam Senn, the rec­og­niz­able faces are offered in plen­i­tude and short of a world dis­as­ter, it looks like the men of WhyNot are going to have full charts.

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Dior Homme Spring 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Tai­lored Man–Accent­ing a tai­lored vision with luxe fab­ri­ca­tions, Kris Van Ass­che presents a clean show­ing for Dior Homme’s spring 2012 sea­son. An atten­tive eye to suit­ing is a Dior main­stay, but where this sea­son really shines is Van Assche’s fine exe­cu­tion of the sim­ple basics. Out­side impec­ca­ble tai­lored lines, the col­lec­tion shifts into a func­tional mode with shirt­ing effort­lessly cut from leather and silk. Com­bine the easy shapes with a sta­ble of allur­ing acces­sories as well as the drap­ing of pan­eled out­er­wear and the new spring sea­son is a mod­ern delight.

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Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

East­ern Awak­en­ing–Going east for the spring 2012 sea­son, Ann Demeulemeester’s roman­tic hero picks up edgier attrib­utes along­side a new-​​found opu­lence. Adding rich camel hues to the cus­tom­ary black and white land­scape, chic long lay­ers play into the collection’s strong point. Always a lineup to watch for acces­sories, spring’s range does not dis­ap­point with a turn towards com­bat boots, which inter­est­ingly results in a new styl­ish san­dal hybrid. Mean­while, embrac­ing the man­darin col­lar and adding it to her sig­na­ture waist­coats and a won­der­ful selec­tion of out­er­wear, Demeule­meester brings together sheer shirt­ing as well as acces­sories to com­plete a for­mi­da­ble spring vision.

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Rick Owens Spring 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Dark Romance–Never one to con­form to the norms, Rick Owens puts the ideals of mas­culin­ity to the test for spring 2012. Dresses after dresses, the California-​​native set out to take con­trol of his def­i­n­i­tion of noir ele­gance for men with maxi lengths of bil­low­ing pro­por­tions, while strict graphic lines and tai­lored jack­ets offered a sub­lim­i­nal con­trast to the disheveled sil­hou­ette. Still heavy in Goth, the apoc­a­lyp­tic DNA is altered for a lighter off­spring of tunic tops, elon­gated out­er­wear and trim trousers in a light­weight silk and linen blend for an out­ing in uncharted roman­tic ter­ror­i­ties for the king of dark glamor.

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