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25 January 2012, written by Carl
Traveling Man–Gazzarrini’s latest collection is propelled by the translation of imagery found in travels to Bruges. Fused with a natural sartorial finesse, garments reflect their inspired environment with a chic ease. Taking in the buildings, the bricks, the angles, beloved prints dress sharp tailored wears. Cropped trousers are a work in themselves with a high waist, low plunging crotch and cropped finish. Paired with sculptural outerwear, sheepskin, cashmere and other final fabrications contribute to a luxe on-pouring. Rounded out with intricate knitwear and a burst of hot pink, the Gazzarrini man is classic but exhibits a certain spontaneity for the modern age.
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17 January 2012, written by Carl
Playing Shapes–Ports 1961 designers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hylton pull together a meticulous collection focusing on sharp lines, construction and varying proportions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s leading man lives up to the classic image of Saville Row. Donning double-breasted suits and clad in outerwear, cut with a minimalist hand, Ports 1961′s gentleman embraces a smooth season that plays tailored tradition against playful exploration. From narrow, well-framed jackets to a final roundup of voluminous coats, Ports 1961 introduces a season of function and spontaneity for a modest success.
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17 January 2012, written by Carl
Raw Elegance–Making the move to Milan for their Italian debut, Diesel Black Gold returned to the clean-cut path, lending classic standbys a youthful edge. Bringing together garments with unfinished hems, thick cable knit sweaters and pleated trousers, a variety of pieces were revealed for a new wardrobe of unlikely companions. Dressing jacket and vest combos in vertical stripes and including the biker jacket as a welcomed addition, Diesel Black Gold brought their vision full circle with a portrayal of timeless elegance, modified for today’s generation.
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17 January 2012, written by Carl
New World–Looking to bring a new dimension to his celebrated vision on tailored classics, Giorgio Armani revamped the standard silhouette, embracing stretch fabrics and loose fits for fall’s collection. Accenting a familiar black and gray palette with bursts of bright blue, Armani’s man was immediately sharp, but relaxed as separates made the move between traditional and modern. While velvet pants ballooned in shape, only to fall into a tapered finish, the double-breasted jacket was at once laid-back. Altogether a seamless mix of two worlds, Giorgio Armani’s fall/winter 2012 collection turned out a phenomenal showing that pitted impeccable construction against bold design.
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17 January 2012, written by Carl
Scholarly Days–Dsquared² designers Dan and Dean Caten send their boys back to school for the fall/winter 2012 season. Bringing smarts to their signature staples, loosely slung denim was paired with light layers consisting of leather jackets, sweatshirts, button-downs and sweater vests. Accessorized with newsboy hats, duffels and backpacks, the season’s theme was a no-brainer. From goody two shoes prep to the sartorial bad boy, Dsquared² packed an easy punch with a relaxed wardrobe that eventually transitioned into more polished garments. Still applying their own handiwork to eveningwear, denim and sequins collided for a cheeky finish.
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