
Minimal Unrest–Disrupting the lines of Patrik Ervell’s trademark suiting, disruption set in with the label’s hero striking a chord for rebellion. Weaving in garments that surprisingly gave the collection an urban edge, Ervell’s man marched on as quilted outerwear took up the part of protective gear and technical fabrics caved into the modern age. Echoing militant sentiments with pieces swaying from structured and fitted to loose, a range that included sharp shirting, a grounded series of trousers and an evolving array of jackets stole the show, setting the tone for a serious fall with an eye for strong style.

English Rooting–Looking for the foundation of his fall/winter 2012 collection, Simon Spurr turned to images of London by Robert Frank. Taking into account early twentieth century style and heading down a modern course, references that include Tommy Nutter’s reinterpreted suit of the 1960’s come into play as Spurr dissects suiting for a relevant edge. Bringing together rich burgundy, brown, navy and other solid colors for a collection dressed in plaids and tweeds, subtle updates were introduced. From leather trousers and a magnified hounds tooth print to a signature penchant for fabric insets, Simon Spurr’s latest efforts resulted in a sound showing, highlighting a sartorial flair juxtaposed with modern sentiments.

Best Served on Ice–Showing for their third season in New York City, Moncler Grenoble took to Wollman ice rink at Central Park with a synchronized performance by athletes that gave movement to the label’s latest outing. Ready for the slopes in extraordinary fashion, fall’s collection took its point of view from crime boss Joe Colombo, utilizing vinyl and plastic fabrics for a technical approach to the season with a dangerous finish. Offering protection from the elements, puffer jackets, quilted crew-necks and lush sweaters rounded out a lineup of active apparel, presented in rich style.

In the Details–The man of Timo Weiland is afforded a collection of streamlined attire for the label’s latest outing. Carrying out contemporary cuts, decorated in a well-versed palette of colors and prints, easy layers provide wardrobe staples in abundance. From fitted trousers and button-down shirting to crew-neck sweaters, fundamental design for the modern man wins out with extra attention poured into suiting. Making a statement with an intricate print, minimalist design caters to the garment of today, easily garnering a repeated second look.

Translating Travels–Laying out carpets for eclectic travels, Y-3’s youth geared up for an adventurous fall/winter 2012 showing. With less attention on the obvious sports appropriateness of the label and more focus on tapping into Yohji Yamamoto’s unique design aesthetic, relaxed silhouettes opened the door to romantic layers. Blended with an urban twist, baggy fits culminated in accessible garments decorated with engaging prints. Built on a range of billowing trousers, casual shirts played the laid-back companion piece to jackets and coats, constructed as that perfect finishing piece. From structured blazers accented with printed strips to a jacket, cut from buttery soft leather or an oversize boxy coat, Y-3 approached the season with a cool aptitude, delivering a contemporary flair, laced with a stylish finesse.

Ol’ Santa Fe–Adapting his prepster uniform with the typical cheek one has come to expect of Band of Outsiders, designer Scott Sternberg visited the southwest for the inspiration of his latest showing. Set under the watercolor painted sky, Sternberg’s platoon came out to play with all their smarts on display. From evening wear to daily essentials, a collection dressed in rich hues and accented with Navajo-inspired prints delighted. Sleepy loungewear provided the quiet counterpart to more polished numbers, rounded out by blazers, crewneck sweaters and fitted shirting. Meanwhile, corduroy reared its head with pants and jackets adding to a classic Americana image. Incorporating quilting and shearling, carefully constructed outerwear added a tough exterior to more gentle touches such as tassel adorned knitwear. Altogether mixing garments of a subdued mood with louder statement pieces, Band of Outsiders delivered their finely tailored aesthetic with a splash of southwestern nostalgia to color the season.