Robert Geller Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Eng­lish Punk–Find­ing the inspi­ra­tion of his lat­est col­lec­tion while lis­ten­ing to early eight­ies post-​​punk band The Sound, Robert Geller decided to usurp the clas­sic Eng­lish mode of style for a vehi­cle to fur­ther push his sig­na­ture design stan­dards. A war of the loose and fit­ted, the mild man­ners of the gen­tle­man and the rash ten­den­cies of youth meshed together for a delight­ful show­ing. Tack­ling var­i­ous inter­pre­ta­tions of knick­ers, casual sweats and volu­mi­nous trousers were brought forth for a lively show­ing. Armed with prints and the occa­sional splash of bold color, Geller’s col­lec­tion high­lighted a dynamic range of gar­ments as usual. Whether craft­ing a cozy grandpa’s cardi­gan or a belted coat, the lineup served up cov­eted pieces with smart details. Amongst tonal color block­ing, short-​​sleeved cable-​​knits and dip-​​dyed fab­rics, Robert Geller’s fall show­ing ush­ered in a sea­son of sophis­ti­cated but ener­getic pieces.

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Siki Im Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Ath­leti­cism for the Style Afi­cionado –Siki Im revis­its school days with a new col­lec­tion that draws its inspi­ra­tion from the gym. Don­ning sweat­bands and sneak­ers, the men of Siki Im hit the gym­na­sium turned run­way with a lineup that jux­ta­posed the fun sporty motif with acces­si­ble gar­ments. The parka was turned out in an over­size boxy cut, chan­nel­ing the vic­tory lap of a cham­pion with room for more del­i­cate pieces like a fan­tas­tic long cable-​​knit sweater, fur­nished in black. Mean­while, leg­gings, sweats and lay­ered pants made the per­fect com­pan­ion to vari­a­tions on the let­ter­man jacket. Blend­ing suit­ing with sports­wear, the over­all results were noth­ing short of genius. Pre­sent­ing the best of both worlds, Siki Im’s fall col­lec­tion tai­lored to the inter­ests of the cre­ative while res­onat­ing the fun­da­men­tal ideas of menswear.

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Alexandre Plokhov Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Dark Truce–Stag­ing his debut run­way show for his name­sake label, Alexan­dre Plokhov kicked off the evening with dark glam­our tak­ing the reigns. Cre­at­ing svelte fig­ures, clad in black, slen­der trousers came together with long skirts, paired with elon­gated tops. From a sleeve­less apron-​​cut blazer and asym­met­ri­cally fas­tened jacket to ultra-​​glam acces­sories that included both gloves and shawls, Plokhov treated the New York audi­ence with a rebel­lious gam­ble before show­ing a hand at more struc­tured wears. Loosely tai­lored, the pin-​​striped suit made an appear­ance, fea­tur­ing an off­beat sil­hou­ette … a fit­ted cropped jacket, plung­ing neck­line, com­plete with trousers fea­tur­ing a loosely draped crotch. Blend­ing suit­ing with tunics and knitwear, Plokhov made the return to more bold gar­ments by the collection’s end, exper­i­ment­ing with sil­hou­ettes and shape for a struc­tured uni­form, jux­ta­posed with slick leather for a strong final impression.

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Billy Reid Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

South­ern Charm–A pol­ished fall out­ing from Billy Reid details the whims of the mod­est gen­tle­man look­ing for all the right pieces with a spe­cial charm. Fur­nished in lush fab­ri­ca­tions with impec­ca­ble details, fall lay­ers pro­vide for the quaint and rugged. Employ­ing a lineup of semi-​​fitted trousers along­side tweed out­er­wear, cash­mere sweaters and sharp shirt­ing, a new wardrobe is fleshed out with com­plete trim­mings. Accented with fur and acces­sorized with the chance car­ryall or leather footwear, Billy Reid’s col­lec­tion prompts the con­tin­u­ance of a sound per­spec­tive that puts the time­less hero first, whether its tai­lored suit­ing or knitwear, ready to be worn in.

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Tim Hamilton Redux Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

Sim­ple Plan–The eques­trian and rebel col­lided for Tim Hamilton’s lat­est Redux out­ing. Blend­ing com­fort­able wear, which he does so well, with more struc­tured sep­a­rates like the tai­lored blazer, fall’s out­ing pro­vided a sporty aes­thetic with sleek attrib­utes. Lay­ing out ready to layer shorts, jog­gers, crew­neck sweaters and other pieces, a clean-​​cut offer­ing pro­vided for end­less options. Whether it was a cheeky logo tee with graphic ban­ter, paired with a leather biker’s jacket or a striped dress shirt non­cha­lantly thrown together with white pants, cropped above the ankle, Tim Hamil­ton crafted an easy wardrobe of inter­change­able gar­ments fea­tur­ing a cer­tain youth­ful cater.

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Rag & Bone Fall/​Winter 2012 | New York Fashion Week

The Rugged Dandy–Approach­ing the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Rag & Bone design­ers David Neville and Mar­cus Wain­wright took hold of the dandy and roughed him up with a wild eye for the unkempt out­doors. Infil­trated by woodsy sen­ti­ments, fine tai­lor­ing took on a util­i­tar­ian pur­pose, jux­ta­posed with details of the mod­ern age. Lasered fab­ri­ca­tions and satin lin­ings joined care­fully placed leather inclu­sions for a notion of today’s designs. Mean­while, relaxed trousers as well as heavy coats of wool tied into a Lon­don roman­ti­cism that is indif­fer­ent to time. A sub­tle twist of menswear fun­da­men­tals, the col­lec­tion as a whole fueled a space for clas­sic ideas with a hint of exper­i­men­tal fod­der aimed at the season.

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