Acne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Young Road to Lux­ury–Bring­ing Paris Fash­ion Week to a close, Swedish label Acne embarked on a col­li­sion course of young and old for a col­lec­tion that pep­pered the clas­sics with a free spirit. With lay­er­ing play­ing a key com­po­nent to the season’s wardrobe, inter­est­ing fab­ri­ca­tions were uti­lized. From quilted shirt­ing employed under­neath a boxy short-​​sleeved sweat­shirt to pleather worn with a for­mal over­coat, a rebel­lious qual­ity was achieved with great sub­tleties. Pil­ing on the sweaters and pro­duc­ing tops with vary­ing sleeve lengths for the ulti­mate com­bi­na­tion of pieces, Acne brought together tapered trousers, over­size blaz­ers as well as suit­ing shorts for a highly wear­able feat.

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Thom Browne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Lit­tle House of Hor­rors–Gather a high volt­age chair, a splash of the macabre and the Amer­i­can sports­man and you have Thom Browne’s lat­est cre­ation. Stuffed into Browne’s lit­tle gray suit, a steroid-​​induced man appeared with bulging shoul­ders against a petite alter ego, infused with punk. While sweaters, cut from mohair made for a giant-​​sized impres­sion, studs and safety pins dec­o­rated seams and hems. Inject­ing the var­sity jacket with vol­ume, clas­sic stand­bys were treated to a whim­si­cal retreat into the dark cor­ners of Browne’s cre­ative genius. Jux­ta­posed with mid-​​riff bar­ing tops and gar­ments in water­melon green and pink, the idea of clas­sic menswear was torn to shreds and pre­sented as Thom Browne’s lat­est fan­tasy, in some aspects wear­able but at large a stir­ring ges­ture to sit back and take in.

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Paul Smith Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Calm Before the Storm–Bask­ing in hues of blue and black, Paul Smith sends his men out to sea for his fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion. Cap­tur­ing the iri­des­cent qual­ity of water, var­i­ous fab­ric fin­ishes gave the range depth as Smith exe­cuted easy gar­ments with a sub­tle twist. Lay­er­ing flu­o­res­cent col­ors with darker coun­ter­parts, the algae of the sea was trans­lated into a novel idea, while anchors and var­i­ous sea crea­tures gave life to charm­ing col­lec­tion accents.

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agnès b. Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Tam­ing of the Kid–agnès b. was in fine form this sea­son. Exe­cut­ing a more pre­cise col­lec­tion than sea­sons past, com­mer­cial intent reigned, dial­ing down the quirky for a delight­ful out­ing with youth­ful fun­da­men­tals. Cleaned up for the sea­son, suit­ing dressed in plaid and autumn hues pro­vided for the season’s strong core. Tai­lored trousers, some­times cuffed were pleated and cut at the ankle. Jack­ets came in the one-​​button and double-​​breasted vari­ety with a sharp shirt and tie combo to fin­ish off a look that was more pro­fes­sional. Mean­while, the antics were not absent with leg­gings and shorts deliv­er­ing great charm, when com­ple­mented by cropped capes, draped tunics and other bold pieces.

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Lanvin Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Shape in Focus–Lan­vin menswear designer Lucas Oss­jen­dri­jver honed in on shape and tex­ture in efforts to define the lat­est col­lec­tion from the esteemed fash­ion house. First on the cat­walk was a double-​​breasted num­ber that became the first of many gar­ments, empha­siz­ing the tai­lored sil­hou­ette on steroids. Eas­ing into loose fits, Oss­jen­dri­jver played with shape and pro­por­tion. At one point, a for­mal jacket appeared with a severe crop and exposed seams. It was just the begin­ning. An exag­ger­ated use of vol­ume added a new dimen­sion to out­er­wear. From bal­looned sleeves and bold hor­i­zon­tal stripes to tech­ni­cal fab­ri­ca­tions, fall’s col­lec­tion from Lan­vin blended sports­wear and the decon­structed suit for a play­ful exposé on the mod­ern man.

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Ann Demeulemeester Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Cool For­mal­i­ties–Ann Demeule­meester ignited the season’s flame, col­or­ing her black and white palette with elec­tric blue and fiery red. Opt­ing for more edge than romance this time around, for­mal over­coats were elon­gated and pieced together with shirt­ing, adorned with printed gra­di­ents. Embrac­ing a svelte fig­ure, long tunics appeared as a sim­ple but strong com­ple­tion to semi-​​fitted pants and fan­tas­tic boots.

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