Damir Doma Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Jour­ney–Damir Doma’s loose sil­hou­ettes are treated to an exotic makeover, cour­tesy of an expe­di­tion that takes in rich prints and lush fab­rics for the new sea­son. Adorned with beads and dressed in tribal prints, Doma’s man reigned supreme with a cer­tain entrap­ment. Belt­ing jack­ets and lay­er­ing with loose over­coats, sharp ensem­bles packed quite the bold punch before trim­ming down for a black­out. Turn­ing to a quiet and focused dimen­sion, mil­i­tant gar­ments filled a void for the fit­ted. Demon­strat­ing a hand for both struc­ture and swift drap­ing, Damir Doma’s lat­est col­lec­tion mar­ried the sub­dued to the extrav­a­gant for a strik­ing fall/​winter 2012 outing.

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Maison Martin Margiela Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Ele­gant Garbage–Unlikely fab­ri­ca­tions cue a sea­son of refine­ment for Mai­son Mar­tin Margiela. From the garbage heap to the leather fac­tory, the trap­pings of a chic col­lec­tion came to fruition. Kick­ing off the show with sharp out­er­wear in camel hues, the focus shifted to leather and fur. Lin­ing the inside of a sweat­shirt or cov­er­ing a blazer, fur made the ulti­mate state­ment of lux­ury. Before pin­ning a season’s affec­tion on gar­ments pieced together from garbage bags and printed fab­rics, dis­sected wears pro­vided for a zany moment that out­lined an eccen­tric out­ing from Mai­son Mar­tin Margiela.

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Miharayasuhiro Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Com­ing Undone–Mil­i­taris­tic ref­er­ences and a sense of rugged ele­gance come together for Miharayasuhiro’s lat­est Parisian show­ing. Work­ing around the idea of strong sep­a­rates, struc­tured items like the cropped pea­coat are con­trasted against over­size cargo pants. Accent­ing a somber sea of dark hues with a large plaid print, vary­ing pro­por­tions are melded together. Lay­ered, fine con­struc­tion gives way to jack­ets with halved sleeves, cam­ou­flage suit­ing and a tai­lored sense of sportswear.

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Walter Van Beirendonck Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Doll for the Day–Not one for the sta­tus quo, Wal­ter Van Beiren­donck took his men on a wild ride for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Laced with his ten­dency for plaid and vibrant col­ors, a masked fig­ure emerged dressed in gar­ments that took a roam­ing explo­ration of the sil­hou­ette. From fit­ted and loose to bil­low­ing, Van Beiren­donck cre­ated a visual buf­fet. Infus­ing the col­or­ful lineup with geo­met­ric work, a con­ser­v­a­tive appli­ca­tion of suit­ing became eccen­tric. Dis­sect­ing knits and out­er­wear with vary­ing parts and color block­ing, the col­lec­tion even­tu­ally came together with an orga­nized state of sar­to­r­ial chaos serv­ing well.

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Raf Simons Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Mod­ern Youth Move­ment–Rebelling against the sea­son, Raf Simons sent his men down the cat­walk in shorts. With hair swept in faces and over­size hats, the clas­sic suit­ing that has hit many a run­way this sea­son was turned on its side for a look deci­sively Simons. The double-​​breasted jacket, cut in char­coal felt delight­fully casual. Mas­ter­ing pro­por­tions, shirt­ing cut larger made the unex­pected lay­er­ing piece to a tie and shirt combo. Work­ing in mesh knits and tops, dressed in gra­di­ents, the Bel­gian designer cre­ated a col­lec­tion of youth and ease, mak­ing for a delight­ful fall showing.

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Hermès Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

L’Essentiel–Retain­ing a reserved ele­gance for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Her­mès cre­ative direc­tor Veronique Nichan­ian kept to a dark color palette in which the fab­ri­ca­tions did the talk­ing. With impec­ca­ble con­struc­tion, in a sea of somber suit­ing and out­er­wear, pieces like a soft trench from leather cre­ated a wow fac­tor when not embraced by sleek trousers as well as car­ryalls. Intro­duc­ing hints of vel­vet and a smoky graphic towards the show’s end, Her­mès lat­est col­lec­tion played to the house’s con­ser­v­a­tive nature while also illus­trat­ing a nat­ural luxe factor.

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