Following our recent peek at Soulland’s fall 2011 collection entitled Civilized, the label releases a film by Ironflag, which debuted alongside their Parisian presentation: “The latest from Soulland finds itself in the cross-hairs of civilian life and militaristic aspirations. Working with a somber color palette, Soulland creative director Silas Adler blends semi-relaxed silhouettes with a hint of Americana for a cohesive range of easily integrable separates.”

as always with petar petrov the main concern is purity, simplicity and craftsmanship … this collection is all about finding new ways to combine fabrics and textures with impeccable cuts and shapes; it represents a modern aesthetic that is easily wearable and yet complex, a clean-lined elegance that doesn’t try too hard … silhouettes are far looser, slightly oversized and all about layering …

Following up on last season’s presentation with a fall debut on the Parisian catwalk, Acne looked to a higher education for an unusual change of pace. Gravitating towards the anti-trend, Acne creative director Jonny Johansson offered a relaxed take on the suit, looking to infuse the mature standby with the label’s youthful touch. Breaking with the monotony of the two-piece suit, the collection seamlessly mixed in separates, ranging from long coats and layered tops to sweatshirts, encompassing a casual tour of the world’s fashion capitals.

Abandoning his trademark skinny suit and staging a lavish feast for fall’s production of a show, Thom Browne took guests on a trip back to colonial days. While models dined on slim pickings, Browne served up a generous helping of coordinated separates with a focus on volume. From puffed sleeves and wide-fitted knickers to trailing trains, the collection brought forth the typical drama tenfold. Although intensive work with silhouettes may have stolen the show, shearling, mohair and wool formed a rich wardrobe of layers, ready to be unpacked for yet another dynamic season from Thom Browne.

Yigal Azrouël joins Phillip Lim in changing venues from New York to Paris for his latest showing. Blending his casual aesthetic with militaristic aspirations, Azrouël showcased a distinctive uniform of layered dark hues. Deconstructing smart essentials, a halved tie and button-down made quite the stir with a shrunken collar and the juxtaposition of strikingly modern knits as well as outerwear. Altogether showcasing an effortless style and a push for more formality, Yigal Azrouël’s fall 2011 collection came together with an effective edit of the label’s short narrative.

Armed with galactic aspirations and a penchant for rock ‘n’ roll styles, Paul Smith imagined an eclectic future for his man. Ready for a journey to the moon, pants accented with zippers were paired with psychedelic prints for a fun fall adventure. Taking the typical blueprint of a Paul Smith collection and amplifying the details, lapels as well as hems found a drastic makeover with foreign cuts and a touch of moon dust. Pumping up the volume as a nod to spacesuits but still keeping a tidy shape, Paul Smith’s quirky fall outing no doubt impressed, coming to the perfect completion with futuristic necklaces as the perfect accessory.