
The scene was quite dark at Rynshu’s latest show. Passing through a black side entrance illuminated by red, it was like entering an exclusive nightclub. Once inside and seated, the show got started with a presentation of several of the trendiest men to be seen this fashion week. Taking full command in the male alternative to wedges, Rynshu’s men took to the catwalk in billowing harem pants and jackets that were strong on structure. With pinched shoulders and an endless sea of silk and sequins, the collection may have embraced a generally black color palette, but it did not forgo glitz in any way – exuding over the top luxury and glamour.

Showcasing a clean contemporary lineup of clothes for the well-polished man, Smalto offered a fine lesson on tailoring, complemented by the subtle drape. Exuding the lightness of the season as seen in earthy hues, the collection made an understated move with garments that appealed to rational sensibilities, while also demonstrating a creative spirit that is tapped into the times.

Covering his men in plaid, pockets and holes of all sizes, Walter Van Beirendonck continued another fearless extension of his free approach to menswear. Creating an overall look that was masculine, even at some points preppy, Van Beirendonck really seemed to challenge the norm by accessorizing his men in showstopping jewelery. At large, a look that is very audience specific, Walter Van Beirendonck still managed to piece together a cohesive collection that showed a more grounded entrance to his eccentric world.

Departing Paris for a tour of the world, the Kenzo man took to many exciting influences for Antonio Marras’ latest outing for the label. From the simple beret and stripes to the subtle prints of the East or an urban safari, Marras delighted with a contemporary look that offered many facets. Whether tackling the world as an enlightened scholar or diving in head first as an anthropologist, the Kenzo man was outfitted for all occasions with the utmost style and grace.

Kris Van Assche’s latest work for Dior Homme promised a clean affair which turned out to be the designer’s handiwork in draping. A progression of last season’s relaxed affair, yesterday’s show offered a monochrome selection of sleek light numbers that really stood out in terms of movement. Graceful yet strong, billowing jackets and sleeveless shirting alike provided an alluring wardrobe for the spring season.

Gustavolins constructs a simple wardrobe for the spring season, loosely held together by semi-relaxed silhouettes and an architectural structure. Primarily working in dark hues, Gustavo Lins improves upon a masculine sense of draping with a fine balance of definition and lose forms.