Kris Van Assche Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Work­force–Show­ing one of his strongest col­lec­tions to date, Bel­gian designer Kris Van Ass­che turned to world affairs to take hold of his lat­est inspi­ra­tion. Cast­ing the banker and the work­ing class as his char­ac­ters of the sea­son, Van Ass­che took his stead­fast pen­chant for suit­ing to a new dimen­sion. Evok­ing a cer­tain ele­gance that felt fresh, men of a roman­tic imag­i­na­tion breezed by the cat­walk. For an ele­ment so fre­quently referred to, Van Assche’s turn to the work­er­swear aes­thetic prompted a regal qual­ity when blended with his skills in con­struc­tion and drap­ing. Relaxed trousers, cut to a fine art floated by while more fre­quented items like the bomber jacket felt deci­sively urban. Jux­ta­posed with knits that fell like a dream, in a sea­son with so much focus on suit­ing, Kris Van Assche’s fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion exe­cuted the fun­da­men­tal with such ease and difference.

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Junya Watanabe Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

At Home–Sea­son after sea­son, the work­ing man is Junya Watanabe’s cham­pi­oned hero with gar­ments geared towards a straight­for­ward appli­ca­tion of the clas­sics. A pure aes­thetic, impen­e­tra­ble by trends, the voice of the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son is sim­ple. Hit­ting the cat­walk, the man of Junya Watan­abe boils down his nec­es­sary pieces to a pair of pants, a jacket and a shirt. From denim to suede, relaxed fits are adorned with braces and dressed with color block­ing in muted hues. With flan­nel and plaid weigh­ing in heav­enly, Junya Watanabe’s lat­est col­lec­tion is at once reas­sur­ing and com­plete with charm.

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Dries Van Noten Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Psy­che­delic Ele­gance–A keynote of any Dries Van Noten col­lec­tion, prints really spoke great vol­umes this sea­son. Tak­ing Oscar Wilde’s dandy and lend­ing him an atti­tude befit­ting of music artist Frank Zappa, the sea­son was Van Noten’s can­vas. Keep­ing fall’s inspi­ra­tions on a tight leash, the back­bone of the col­lec­tion was entrusted to sharp over­coats and pleated trousers, nar­row and wide. With fine form at the collection’s heart, next came excit­ing prints in vivid col­ors. Dress­ing sweaters and pants for a psy­che­delic reemer­gence, Van Noten no doubt made a loud state­ment, but also deliv­ered charm sub­tly with finer print motifs and lux­u­ri­ous fab­ri­ca­tions such as vel­vet dri­ving his effort­less ele­gance home.

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Henrik Vibskov Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Bone Yard–Tire­less in vision, Hen­rik Vib­skov rein­ter­preted his sig­na­ture wardrobe of gar­ments, includ­ing drop crotch shorts and elon­gated knits in a fash­ion that was more focused than usual. Mut­ing col­ors and hon­ing in on prints, skele­ton rem­nants inspired a tense col­lec­tion of loosely cut gar­ments con­trasted against more struc­tured pieces. At times, Vibskov’s men donned over­size out­er­wear with lit­tle to no form, allow­ing for its wearer to cre­ate the shape while more involved moments showed the designer’s hand at con­struc­tion with a play­ful take on the suit, also allow­ing for a lit­tle stretch. Alto­gether, a fine fusion of stead­fast work and eager play, the col­lec­tion show­cased moments unique to Hen­rik Vibskov’s design his­tory, while also fea­tur­ing a new dimen­sion with more form.

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Issey Miyake Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Sim­plic­ity in Color–First to hit the cat­walk for Issey Miyake was a lineup of tex­tured knits and trousers, cut loose with sig­nif­i­cant pleat­ing. Deliv­er­ing quite the num­ber of col­ors against a core grounded in gray, color, tex­ture and shape gave the new col­lec­tion def­i­n­i­tion. A com­bi­na­tion of keen atten­tion to sil­hou­ette and the nur­tur­ing of an aes­thetic, the options remained lim­ited but excelled in the sense of sell­ing the label’s finer points. Mar­ry­ing an east­ern school of thought with west­ern ide­ol­ogy, relaxed jack­ets, shirt­ing and trousers were mixed and matched for an end­less wardrobe of laid-​​back style options fea­tur­ing a dis­tin­guished harmony.

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3.1 Phillip Lim Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

School of Lim–3.1 Phillip Lim made the return to its youth­ful zest for the label’s Parisian show. Rein­vent­ing influ­ences from the six­ties, designer Phillip Lim churned out desir­able sep­a­rates at an unwa­ver­ing moment’s notice. Laced with fun, base­ball jack­ets, trans­par­ent duf­fel coats and sleeve­less suit num­bers con­tributed to the collection’s iden­tity. Embrac­ing a dig­i­tal motif and putting his boys in creep­ers, Lim pro­duced an army of angst-​​ridden style afi­ciona­dos. Parad­ing a dom­i­nant palette of white with bursts of var­ied col­ors, pleated fit­ted trousers fit right in along­side an eclec­tic con­ver­gence of styles for a reward­ing fall season.

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