Paris Fashion Week | Julius Fall 2010
Walking to the sound of their own beat, Julius works within their own context, progressing a fall season that is darker than last. With their faces obstructed by dramatic bangs, Julius’ models course the runway in meticulous draping, treated leather and bold skin-baring silhouettes that defy the season’s functional staples.
Paris Fashion Week | Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2010
Violence takes center stage on the runway once more this season with Jean Paul Gaultier looking to boxing for inspiration. Avoiding a stale blackout, Gaultier infuses his range with a brilliant mix of silhouettes and standouts modeled after the boxer’s uniform. With enough versatility to be taken in the direction of either casual or formal wear, robe-like outerwear, voluminous waistlines, tapered legs and multi-functional leather give shape to a plethora of ready-to-layer basics and suiting separates.
Paris Fashion Week | Louis Vuitton Fall 2010
Louis Vuitton plays it safe this season with a relaxed attempt at formal suiting. Adding leather inserts to jackets and elasticated cuffs to trousers, the Louis Vuitton man moves to downplay his prestige. Down outerwear may help his case, but the collection overall comes across as static with the exception of an arresting pair of duo-tone colored boots.
Paris Fashion Week | Gaspard Yurkievich Fall 2010
Gaspard Yurkievich’s man is confidently on the move as the designer makes haste to deconstruct the suit. Scrapping tradition, Yurkievich reassembles his own suit, applying different colorways and embellishments to fashion his modern creation. Maintaining relatively normal upper proportions, Yurkievich approaches trousers with two dominant pleats, a controlled, but relaxed fit and a timeless grace. Altogether, the fall collection turns suiting inside out, only to come out with a uniform look that within modern context makes perfect sense.
Paris Fashion Week | Issey Miyake Fall 2010
As a majority of designers avoid color like its the plague, Issey Miyake creative director Dai Fujiwara delivers a refreshing jolt of color. Not afraid to embrace bold colors and prints, the garments of Fujiwara’s man exude a chic lived-in quality. Utilizing darting and wrinkled fabrics, unique garments are created that convey a certain lightness, while also being appropriate for both fall and periods of transition.
Paris Fashion Week | Alexis Mabille Fall 2010
Alexis Mabille’s man is at a crossroads. On one hand, he values the classic standbys, but at the same time he is ready to accept the modern age. His attempt at blending the two elements results in Mabille’s second Parisian showing that offers both style and relative shock value. Creating an array of sophisticated looks updated with the addition of leggings, Mabille goes the extra mile to showcase what his man is wearing under all those clothes. Equipped with sock garters and suspenders for the ideal undergarment accessories, Mabille’s man is provocative, but at the surface, a representation of the modern evolution of luxury. Pushing forward, luxe fabrics still hold a certain importance, but Mabille shows a particular fashion sense that is more about adding special details to the ordinary garments that suit everyday life.
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