The Backstage Project by Emilio Tini

Project Boy–Pho­tog­ra­pher Emilio Tini turns it out like no other can, approach­ing an ambi­tious num­ber of boys for a new filmed project enti­tled The Back­stage Project. Sit­ting for the black & white ses­sion are Adrien Sahores, Bap­tiste Radufe, Bas­ti­aan Van Gaalen, Char­lie Timms, David Hlinka, Duco Fer­w­erda, Ethan James, Greg Nawrat, Jakob Wiech­mann, James Chuter, Jamie Wise, Jesse Shan­non, Karl Mor­rall, Keno Wei­d­ner, Kim Dall’armi, Lenz von John­ston, Matt King, Milo Spijk­ers, Paris Nichol­son, RJ King, Sasha Weis­senborn, Thomas Buko­vatz, Tomek Sza­lan­ski and Vic­tor Nylan­der .

Topman Design Fall/​Winter 2012 | London Fashion Week

After Mid­night–Tak­ing a dark turn, Top­man Design chan­nels a young Patti Smith and Robert Map­plethorpe for their fall/​winter 2012 out­ing. Mix­ing and mesh­ing rich tex­tures for a rebel­lious sea­son, a tra­di­tional Eng­lish sen­si­bil­ity is jux­ta­posed with a rel­a­tive edge. Alter­nat­ing between tapered trousers and pants of PVC, Topman’s hero demon­strates a knack for clean dress with a mod­ern spin. Trans­lat­ing Mapplethorpe’s lily print into graphic dressed silk shirt­ing, the fin­ish­ing touch to a col­lec­tion of lush knits and struc­tured out­er­wear is a range of rosaries, crafted by Husam El Odeh.

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Acne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Young Road to Lux­ury–Bring­ing Paris Fash­ion Week to a close, Swedish label Acne embarked on a col­li­sion course of young and old for a col­lec­tion that pep­pered the clas­sics with a free spirit. With lay­er­ing play­ing a key com­po­nent to the season’s wardrobe, inter­est­ing fab­ri­ca­tions were uti­lized. From quilted shirt­ing employed under­neath a boxy short-​​sleeved sweat­shirt to pleather worn with a for­mal over­coat, a rebel­lious qual­ity was achieved with great sub­tleties. Pil­ing on the sweaters and pro­duc­ing tops with vary­ing sleeve lengths for the ulti­mate com­bi­na­tion of pieces, Acne brought together tapered trousers, over­size blaz­ers as well as suit­ing shorts for a highly wear­able feat.

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Paul Smith Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Calm Before the Storm–Bask­ing in hues of blue and black, Paul Smith sends his men out to sea for his fall/​winter 2012 col­lec­tion. Cap­tur­ing the iri­des­cent qual­ity of water, var­i­ous fab­ric fin­ishes gave the range depth as Smith exe­cuted easy gar­ments with a sub­tle twist. Lay­er­ing flu­o­res­cent col­ors with darker coun­ter­parts, the algae of the sea was trans­lated into a novel idea, while anchors and var­i­ous sea crea­tures gave life to charm­ing col­lec­tion accents.

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Miharayasuhiro Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Com­ing Undone–Mil­i­taris­tic ref­er­ences and a sense of rugged ele­gance come together for Miharayasuhiro’s lat­est Parisian show­ing. Work­ing around the idea of strong sep­a­rates, struc­tured items like the cropped pea­coat are con­trasted against over­size cargo pants. Accent­ing a somber sea of dark hues with a large plaid print, vary­ing pro­por­tions are melded together. Lay­ered, fine con­struc­tion gives way to jack­ets with halved sleeves, cam­ou­flage suit­ing and a tai­lored sense of sportswear.

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John Galliano Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Gang­ster Lore–Look­ing to the days of pro­hi­bi­tion for the inspi­ra­tion of his sec­ond out­ing for John Gal­liano, cre­ative direc­tor Bill Gayt­ten honed in on char­ac­ters, rang­ing from gang­sters and the law estab­lish­ment to Amer­i­can sports-​​stars. Empow­ered by the stigma of a gang­ster, the col­lec­tion was off to a strong start with over­size sil­hou­ettes ush­er­ing in the double-​​breasted suit and fine coats of fur. Turn­ing to ref­er­ences by J.C Leyen­decker and Nor­man Rock­well, the baggy trousers of America’s infa­mous king­pins were closely fol­lowed by Gaytten’s noto­ri­ous band of hench­men. Youth­ful, cold and belted in for a show­down with the law, the men­ac­ing were met with hues of army green, dress­ing the avi­a­tor jacket, a mil­i­tary jacket, com­plete with epaulettes and other heroic pieces. Caught in the mid­dle of the two fac­tions and bring­ing the show to a close were John Galliano’s sports heroes, reveal­ing a pol­ished evening wardrobe, sequined and gen­er­ally more fitted.

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