Thomas Sottong by Julia Hetta for Acne Paper

Strange Behav­ior–Suc­cess model Thomas Sot­tong cov­ers the spring 2012 edi­tion of Acne Paper. Strung up for the quirky fea­ture, Thomas is pho­tographed by Julia Hetta and styled by Mat­tias Karls­son. /​ Makeup by Peter Philips.

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Thom Browne Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Lit­tle House of Hor­rors–Gather a high volt­age chair, a splash of the macabre and the Amer­i­can sports­man and you have Thom Browne’s lat­est cre­ation. Stuffed into Browne’s lit­tle gray suit, a steroid-​​induced man appeared with bulging shoul­ders against a petite alter ego, infused with punk. While sweaters, cut from mohair made for a giant-​​sized impres­sion, studs and safety pins dec­o­rated seams and hems. Inject­ing the var­sity jacket with vol­ume, clas­sic stand­bys were treated to a whim­si­cal retreat into the dark cor­ners of Browne’s cre­ative genius. Jux­ta­posed with mid-​​riff bar­ing tops and gar­ments in water­melon green and pink, the idea of clas­sic menswear was torn to shreds and pre­sented as Thom Browne’s lat­est fan­tasy, in some aspects wear­able but at large a stir­ring ges­ture to sit back and take in.

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Viktor & Rolf Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The House of Shape–Head­ing into the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Vik­tor & Rolf chan­nel the East­ern Bloc for a seri­ous col­lec­tion with its share of the design duo’s acclaimed quirk. Serv­ing a buf­fet of leather offer­ings, from trousers to over­alls, it is the out­er­wear that steals the show in a sea­son, strong on shape. Con­structed and fit­ted to per­fec­tion, smart lay­ers show­case dif­fer­ent pro­por­tions at work. From boxy to sleek and svelte, menswear clas­sics are given edge with boxy shoul­ders mak­ing a strong impact among prac­ti­cal pieces.

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Mugler Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

Chang­ing Agenda–Tread­ing closer to the con­ser­v­a­tive rule­book, Mugler takes a more stream­lined approach to the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. Grav­i­tat­ing towards the suit as the collection’s core base, a bet­ter apti­tude for wear­able gar­ments is exe­cuted but a bold spirit still remains. Cast in black, bur­gundy and mid­night blue, the man of Mugler is placed at a cross­roads. While sev­eral jack­ets, capes and other fine items show a hand at tai­lor­ing and fine fit, oth­ers tend to mask sub­stance with style. With silk and worked fab­ri­ca­tions mak­ing their debut and dis­sect­ing designs, Mugler is at once a foot for­ward with inter­est, but a mixed sig­nal when arriv­ing at a cohe­sive union of style, con­struc­tion and intent.

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Moschino Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Play­ing Fash­ion–Moschino’s knack for bold prints and col­ors col­lides with a tra­di­tional sense of menswear for a pen­e­trat­ing col­lec­tion. Open­ing the show with bowler hats as well as suit­ing and tees printed with cob­ble­stones, the sea­son res­onated with a nos­tal­gic Lon­don flair. Mak­ing the gen­tle­man rel­e­vant, the trap­pings of the dis­tin­guished blended with a cheeky use of wardrobe dis­sec­tion for a new chap­ter. From patches on pants to exposed jacket seams, Moschino’s man was decon­structed and rebuilt, before emerg­ing with vibrant col­ors and graf­fiti prints that lend refined ele­gance a quirky undertone.

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Jean-Luc’s Casting Call Diaries | Paris Fashion Week – Day 3

New Kids on the Block — Day three of this sea­son two of exclu­sive ‘Cast­ing Call Diaries’ series for The Fash­ion­isto took me from Givenchy to Jil Sander via Cer­ruti 1881 and Issey Miyake … The sun was back and the guys in a good mood, per­fect con­di­tions to snap sev­eral estab­lished names (Low­ell Tautchin, Jakob Wiech­mann, Isaac Carew, Linus Gustin, Philip Huang, RJ King, Lucas Mas­carini, Adrien Brunier, etc.), but also tons of young blood (Kim Kraglund, Ben­jamin Eidem, Fred­erik Tölke, Simon Van Meer­venne, Dorian Jes­pers, etc.) and new­com­ers to watch such as Arthur, Simon Sab­bah, Wil­son, Leo Tile­man, Dim­itris Alexan­drou, Maxim Popov, Raf Cross, Ollie Mann, Noud Egberts or Jor­dan Bur­man to name only a few … High­lights of the day : Mark West­ing­house going wall-​​climbing for me and Maïda Grégory-​​Boïna allow­ing me to doc­u­ment her cast­ing for Jil Sander right from the inside; they deserve a spe­cial men­tion … look out for the next episode !

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