agnès b. Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

The Tam­ing of the Kid–agnès b. was in fine form this sea­son. Exe­cut­ing a more pre­cise col­lec­tion than sea­sons past, com­mer­cial intent reigned, dial­ing down the quirky for a delight­ful out­ing with youth­ful fun­da­men­tals. Cleaned up for the sea­son, suit­ing dressed in plaid and autumn hues pro­vided for the season’s strong core. Tai­lored trousers, some­times cuffed were pleated and cut at the ankle. Jack­ets came in the one-​​button and double-​​breasted vari­ety with a sharp shirt and tie combo to fin­ish off a look that was more pro­fes­sional. Mean­while, the antics were not absent with leg­gings and shorts deliv­er­ing great charm, when com­ple­mented by cropped capes, draped tunics and other bold pieces.

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Hermès Fall/​Winter 2012 | Paris Fashion Week

L’Essentiel–Retain­ing a reserved ele­gance for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son, Her­mès cre­ative direc­tor Veronique Nichan­ian kept to a dark color palette in which the fab­ri­ca­tions did the talk­ing. With impec­ca­ble con­struc­tion, in a sea of somber suit­ing and out­er­wear, pieces like a soft trench from leather cre­ated a wow fac­tor when not embraced by sleek trousers as well as car­ryalls. Intro­duc­ing hints of vel­vet and a smoky graphic towards the show’s end, Her­mès lat­est col­lec­tion played to the house’s con­ser­v­a­tive nature while also illus­trat­ing a nat­ural luxe factor.

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Ports 1961 Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Play­ing Shapes–Ports 1961 design­ers Fiona Cibani and Ian Hyl­ton pull together a metic­u­lous col­lec­tion focus­ing on sharp lines, con­struc­tion and vary­ing pro­por­tions. Cast in a somber gray palette, the label’s lead­ing man lives up to the clas­sic image of Sav­ille Row. Don­ning double-​​breasted suits and clad in out­er­wear, cut with a min­i­mal­ist hand, Ports 1961’s gen­tle­man embraces a smooth sea­son that plays tai­lored tra­di­tion against play­ful explo­ration. From nar­row, well-​​framed jack­ets to a final roundup of volu­mi­nous coats, Ports 1961 intro­duces a sea­son of func­tion and spon­tane­ity for a mod­est success.

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Canali Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

Clas­sic Flair–Ital­ian label Canali goes the way of Lon­don for a swing­ing col­lec­tion of sar­to­r­ial pro­por­tions. Kick­ing off the show with a banker chic approach to fash­ion, pin­striped suit­ing and over­coats set the tone for a well-​​informed throw­back. Tran­si­tion­ing to a casual change of pace, suede and cor­duroy made an easy impact with pais­ley prints join­ing the foray in the form of jack­ets and trousers.

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John Richmond Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

A Per­son­al­ity–Infus­ing every­day wear with glam­our, John Rich­mond put on quite the show for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. In a world of his own, Richmond’s man hit the cat­walk with the utmost style, impress­ing in var­ied gar­ments, rang­ing from treated denim to luxe evening jack­ets. Spar­ing no expense, leather, fur and other fab­ri­ca­tions accented menswear sta­ples with the parka, duf­fle coat as well as other sig­na­ture pieces mak­ing an appear­ance. Encom­pass­ing the wide spec­trum of style, tees to printed jack­ets made a strong impact. Whether play­ing it low-​​key in a black num­ber or draw­ing atten­tion with inten­sive print work, John Rich­mond revealed a sea­son of desired elegance.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Fall/​Winter 2012 | Milan Fashion Week

The Busi­ness of Style–Ermenegildo Zegna tack­les the wardrobe of the pro­fes­sional for the fall/​winter 2012 sea­son. From board meet­ing to impromptu plane flight, an evening out or even the slopes on vaca­tion, Zegna’s man is ready for any occa­sion. While suit­ing dressed in a Prince of Wales print finds a clas­sic streak with strong lines, essen­tials like the trench are updated with soft leather accents and an over­size sil­hou­ette. Hon­ing in on the details, trousers with the cuff turned up reveal a printed lin­ing that rein­forces the collection’s fine atten­tion to style. As jack­ets are pre­pared for the cold with quilt­ing, chic num­bers like a loosely cut cape jacket res­onate well with Ermenegildo Zegna’s man who trans­verses the path between stead­fast tra­di­tion and play­ful modernity.

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