Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2010

Chaotic and prob­a­bly dis­as­trous in the eyes of sev­eral, there are not enough words to describe the lat­est col­lec­tion that graced Yves Saint Laurent’s spring run­way. Ste­fano Pilati turned out a well-​​intentioned col­lec­tion that is rebel­lious, inap­pro­pri­ate, ill-​​fitting and somber, but ulti­mately infec­tious. It’s sloppy, gritty and raw sil­hou­ettes con­sumed the form and heavy lay­ered pieces, bet­ter suited for fall dom­i­nated what was meant for spring. Neck­lines that plunged as low as mid chest were no match for trousers that were as baggy as they were shape­less, leav­ing one to pon­der how exactly every­thing was held up. Dressed up in a moody clay-​​based color palette, the over­all shapes of the col­lec­tion had no def­i­nite flow. One minute there was an elon­gated coat with sleeves hacked off at the shoul­ders – next being fol­lowed by a dainty cropped dou­ble breasted jacket. Winged cardi­gans and broad coats only added more con­fu­sion to the mix. How­ever, there is tran­quil­ity and reas­sur­ance to be found in Pilati’s col­lec­tion for the sole rea­son that he gives men options. Sep­a­rate the indi­vid­ual pieces of his eccen­tric looks and you are left with phe­nom­e­nal pieces such as the nomad-​​inspired tops, zip­pered pon­chos or the sub­tly winged cardi­gans. Over­all, it is easy to deem the col­lec­tion insane, but at its heart is a noble direc­tion that ven­tures the way of the unex­pected and chal­lenges fashion’s cur­rent norms.

Pic­tures from Menstyle.it