Lidija Kolovrat, similarly to the guidelines of the futurists, re-contextualized social and urban individuals emphasizing social phenomena, that lead to questions about our attitude towards the physical world and the world of ideas when confronted by political and ideological constraints. We are not speaking of a unifying concept of her work but a leitmotiv that insists, against worldly and transient fashion, in a playful use of these parts, which enhances the idiosyncrasy of the user and not like a mirror of this era’s taste.
In one of her most successful collections, the author set to fire a red skirt and with it nearly burned her entire studio. In another of her experiences, a friend voluntarily wore a coat that was then wrapped in latex where he then had to be detained past midnight hours until the latex dried. He was released through the force of scissors that ultimately redefined the openings of the jacket and revealed its final shape and appearance – so at the end was that a performative act? A used-looking coat acquires an extra semantics to be “designed” for the hot tips of lit cigarettes. Leather jackets which have been made obsolete by changes in taste over 20 years gain, by means of subversion, new volumes of its normal use. They are subject to reversal, cut to the same members in new locations and thereby gain new order. This is the method of Lidija Kolovrat: take the rules, the standard things, rethink them and present them in the light of her environmental concerns, social and political.
In this moment Lidija is changing her creative state. She is leaving behind the now historic studio/gallery, Pedro e o Lobo (Peter and the Wolf), which has fueled the KolovratLab and is gradually leaving the Lisbon Fashion Week as a platform to present the collections to the general public and the press. Henceforth, her loyal customers will enter another pod. The workshop will be built inside her house and the collections will be displayed in galleries or other less conventional spaces, adding another point to the in-definition and multidisciplinary of its parts. This auction serves as a point of situation, a historical overview, a retrospective reflection of twenty years of Kolovrat’s work.
‘Lidija Kolovrat – 20 years in fashion‘ Auction: 23 July | Thursday | 20:00 pm | Kolovrat Concept Store, Rua do Salitre 169 Lisbon
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Kindly,
Martin Kullik
Photo Credits:
Lidija Kolovrat (Portrait) Gonçalo Gaioso
Modalisboa Rui Vasco
