MAN
London Fashion Week closed with the MAN runway show. MAN is a collaboration between Topman and Fashion East. Each year, the panel behind MAN is dedicated to finding the newest talent in menswear to showcase. This year, James Long and Hans Madsen were invited back to show for the second time with newcomer James Long. Also featured on the runway is the Topman Design collection for the sophisticated Topman customer a cut above the rest.
Reading the pieces that London Fashion Week organizers compiled on each of the designers assists in a greater appreciation for the collections. After reading, it became clear what each designer is trying to do with their work. A personal favorite out of the three designers is Hans Madsen and his knits.
Topman Design
Christopher Shannon
“Gaining a scholarship on the Central St Martins MA Menswear course by the formidable professor Louise Wilson, the first of it’s kind in 10 years, Christopher Shannon moved to London from his native Liverpool, and has worked as design assistant to both Richard James and Kim Jones. Having worked on Kylie’s creative team for 2 years, he met his teen hero Judy Blame, working 2 seasons on a collaborative luxury print clothing label with him, which sold out in some of the most prestigious boutiques and stores. His graduate collection, which features collaborative pieces with sponsors who include: Eastpak, Nike, New Balance, and Levis, and fabrics sponsored by Calvin Klein, is currently stocked in Colette. He has reworked shell suits and sports pieces in new fabrications with a nod to Northern style and market stall bootlegging, and lots of reversible elements, something he describes as ‘refined scallyism’. He was awarded the Dunhill Menswear Award earlier this year.” Christopher Shannon Official Website [London Fashion Week]
Hans Madsen
“Danish native Hans Madsen graduated with an MA in Knitwear from the Royal College of Art in 2007, recognised for his well-crafted, conceptual and approachable pieces. His process-orientated approach to design where beautiful simplicity meets the minimalism and meditative style of military clothing takes a strong nod to Scandinavian knitting tradition. The contrast between highly protective and sporty outerwear pieces in nylon and other stiff fabrics, and baggy hand-knits and nonchalant, worn shirts matched with comfortable pants, all evoke a casual image of a traditional Scandinavian style with a raw twist. Since graduating, he has been working with Diesel, and won the world’s most prestigious fur competition, The Golden Fur Pin. He was recently chosen to create a limited edition hand-knit for the forthcoming b Store/Selfridges Pop-In Store later this year.” Hans Madsen Official Website [London Fashion Week]
James Long
“Graduating from The Royal College of Art with an MA Menswear/Accessories, James Long studied his BA at London College of Fashion, moving to London from Northampton. When GQ Associate Editor and MAN panel member Charlie Porter purchased several pieces from his graduate collection he knew he was onto a good thing, with various editorials featuring his work to follow; Dazed & Confused, i-D Magazine, Another Man, Numero and many more with special commissions for Italian Vogue. Working from his Hackney studio, he mainly works with leather and sheepskin combining them with modern materials such as gauze netting and plastics, to create battle-ready hard silhouettes. He channels his sculptural accessories knowledge into clothing, preferring not to work from blocks. He regards his clothing as a type of protection. He has just been nominated alongside 7 international designers for the Amsterdam Denim Award and has just done a collaborative project with Dazed Japan. For Spring/Summer 2009, he will collaborate with Jeffery West on footwear.” James Long Official Website [London Fashion Week]
My favorites, in order:
Hans Madsen, Topman Design, James Long, and finally, Christopher Shannon.
Hans Madsen:
The knits look so warm and comfortable. I liked that there were different length variations in the shorts/pants. Plus, it’s my favorite colour palette! It makes for great colour contrasts with accessories. The necklines are nice to see as well.
Topman Design:
One way I’d describe this collection, in a word is, COOL (yes, in all caps). It’s like if Sorbets were turned into clothes, it would look like this. I’m particularly fond of the tops with geometric colour blocking.
James Long:
This was really interesting. I’d definitely like to see how layering and different styling of these pieces could give it a different look; I’m not sure how willing men would be to show skin.
Christopher Shannon:
This represents an opposite of my own style, but something that I wish I could wear and pull off. I want those two toned leggings though.
I thoroughly enjoyed this post.
🙂
My favorites, in order:
Hans Madsen, Topman Design, James Long, and finally, Christopher Shannon.
Hans Madsen:
The knits look so warm and comfortable. I liked that there were different length variations in the shorts/pants. Plus, it’s my favorite colour palette! It makes for great colour contrasts with accessories. The necklines are nice to see as well.
Topman Design:
One way I’d describe this collection, in a word is, COOL (yes, in all caps). It’s like if Sorbets were turned into clothes, it would look like this. I’m particularly fond of the tops with geometric colour blocking.
James Long:
This was really interesting. I’d definitely like to see how layering and different styling of these pieces could give it a different look; I’m not sure how willing men would be to show skin.
Christopher Shannon:
This represents an opposite of my own style, but something that I wish I could wear and pull off. I want those two toned leggings though.
I thoroughly enjoyed this post.
🙂
I didn’t want to clutter this post with my opinion as it was already so text heavy, but now your comment begs for it. 😀
Hans Madsen is the only collection out of the lot that I absolutely LOVE. His knits have a classic feel to them like Missoni. I can also imagine easily taking them from fall to spring and dressing them up or down.
Topman’s collection seems a lot like Raf Simons meets workout wear. I know by the time, the collection hits, I will want some pieces, but currently it leaves me underwhelmed. I do not notice any standout pieces.
I really want to like what James Long is doing, but his collection is more concept than wear. I do not see any pieces that most, even daring people would wear. Those plastic bags/shorts had me asking “Really?” However, I can see his aesthetic translating better with wearable materials and silhouettes that are less severe.
Christopher Long is the male’s version of Sporty Spice. I like the work with patterns and blocking, but the leggings look out of place. Even though I love leggings, at this point, I’m a little fatigued by the addition of leggings in collections where they really do not mix.
I didn’t want to clutter this post with my opinion as it was already so text heavy, but now your comment begs for it. 😀
Hans Madsen is the only collection out of the lot that I absolutely LOVE. His knits have a classic feel to them like Missoni. I can also imagine easily taking them from fall to spring and dressing them up or down.
Topman’s collection seems a lot like Raf Simons meets workout wear. I know by the time, the collection hits, I will want some pieces, but currently it leaves me underwhelmed. I do not notice any standout pieces.
I really want to like what James Long is doing, but his collection is more concept than wear. I do not see any pieces that most, even daring people would wear. Those plastic bags/shorts had me asking “Really?” However, I can see his aesthetic translating better with wearable materials and silhouettes that are less severe.
Christopher Long is the male’s version of Sporty Spice. I like the work with patterns and blocking, but the leggings look out of place. Even though I love leggings, at this point, I’m a little fatigued by the addition of leggings in collections where they really do not mix.
For more information about HANS MADSEN nordic folklore reinvented visit:
http://www.hans-madsen.com
On the contrary, I’m sure people would love to hear your perspective!
I do agree with you on James Long and Christopher Shannon’s collections though. I tried to give those two designers the benefit of the doubt that they had a specific vision (that I just don’t fully get).
On the contrary, I’m sure people would love to hear your perspective!
I do agree with you on James Long and Christopher Shannon’s collections though. I tried to give those two designers the benefit of the doubt that they had a specific vision (that I just don’t fully get).
I do understand their direction though. That’s why I loved reading the little articles.
I do understand their direction though. That’s why I loved reading the little articles.
For more information about HANS MADSEN nordic folklore reinvented visit:
http://www.hans-madsen.com