Dries Van Noten’s swan song for the spring-summer 2025 collection is a masterful culmination of his storied career. As one of the original Antwerp Six, Van Noten’s influence on menswear since launching his line in 1986 has been profound.
With his retirement announcement in March 2024, Van Noten’s last collection is a tribute to his unwavering creativity and attention to detail, culminating in an unforgettable presentation.
As the lights went up, a catwalk adorned with silver foil set a reflective stage, perfectly capturing the essence of his final show, which featured a diverse cast of models, including seasoned icons like Alain Gossuin, Mathias Lauridsen, and Philip Huang, current stars, such as Jonas Glöer and Leon Dame, and rising talent like Vasko Luyckx.
Van Noten explores the role of clothing as a trusted ally on life’s path, encapsulated in fluid silhouettes that embody the organic flow of creativity. This narrative is skillfully woven through a stunning fusion of timeless and modern elements, resulting in a visually striking and cohesive celebration of his design philosophy.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
The striking organza pieces feature an expert interplay of transparency and layering, extending the silhouette to new lengths and imbuing it with an otherworldly aura. While Van Noten’s renowned tailoring expertise remains a constant, it’s tempered this season with a softer, more fluid approach that fosters a sense of freedom and elegant motion.
Outerwear takes center stage, with standouts including coats that showcase a mesmerizing play of textures and statement pieces like a sheer trench that exudes a sense of vulnerability. Meanwhile, the suits are elevated to new heights, with exquisite embroidery adding an ornate touch to the tailored designs.
Van Noten’s farewell collection showcases his signature mastery of prints, blending avant-garde flair with wearability. The vibrant Hanabi print, a joyful floral motif, adds a celebratory touch to the designs, infusing the garments with revelry and festivity.
Van Noten’s designs have long been influenced by his passion for art, music, and culture, often incorporating elements of performance and immersion, as seen in his collaborations with artists like David Michalek. This season, he draws inspiration from Japanese suminagashi, introducing a mesmerizing marbling effect that lends the garments a sense of timeless sophistication and artistic nuance.
In his final bow, Dries Van Noten leaves the fashion world with a collection that encapsulates his legacy of innovation and artistry. This spring-summer lineup is not only a reflection of his journey as a designer but also a poignant reminder of the beauty found in evolution and transformation. It’s a fitting farewell from a designer whose work has consistently moved forward, carrying the essence of the past and the future.
