Confidence, awareness, freedom. Lucie and Luke Meier’s Jil Sander man follows his own intuition and creates his own rules, playfully. In his vision, the heritage of tailoring, the sharpness of the uniform, technical and utilitarian, merge with more progressive forms and shapes, comfort and attitude. He understands cuts and fabrics, looks for details and aesthetic shifts, and effortlessly layers lengths and volumes.
Summer is fresh, airy, and easy. Sharp suits are reinvented with a soft kilt silhouette, black and white, navy or cream, in deep hues or subtly textured. Polyester is woven with a bicolor wool mouliné that gives garments a three-dimensional look. Natural fiber fabrics are shown un-dyed in their purest form, while yarn dyed suiting and boucle jacquards animate tailoring, overcoats, and accessories. The shorter shapes of jackets and trousers are paired with structured, yet light, coats, and raincoats in strong water-repellent cotton-polyurethane. Trousers are cut sharply at the ankle, shirts are extended, and headwear and hoods are protective and soft.
Lines are purified throughout the collection in a geometric form: in suits, outerwear, shirts, pants, shoes and bag shapes. The creative properties of function are explored, and challenged, through the use of garment dye and finishings in natural materials, such as leather or cotton, that generate a strong contrast with the sharpness of lines. The result is a human touch within the functional world of the uniform.
Crisp and iconic, the white poplin shirts are printed with photographic images realized through an elaborate process of silk screens, in black and white, red, green, and turquoise. Mostly long, with oversized sleeves, and modest or sculptural collars, they emphasize the sense of youth, freedom, intelligence, and rebellion that runs throughout the collection.
As another contrast to the pure forms, prints and Vichy patterns in contrasting colors, in knitwear and shirts, are proposed. The aim is at the same time to signify, through motifs and hues, an idea of something familiar: intimate, calm. A reassurance of something from home, from a world that is well understood and one that provides confidence.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2019 Men’s Collection
