John Varvatos returns to New York Fashion Week, presenting its spring-summer 2025 collection, “Kiln & Craft.” New creative director Karl Aberg takes the reins with a vision that explores “The Art of Imperfection.”
“What I tried to infuse into this season is bringing modernity into the collection, loosening the silhouettes, softening the color palette so it gives a contemporary feel,” Aberg explains. His approach respects the familiar ethos that John Varvatos enthusiasts have come to expect—imperfect perfection.
Aberg, reflecting on his decades with John Varvatos, comments, “Since my first day with JV in 1999, we have always admired and sought the perfectly imperfect.” This philosophy expands in 2025 with an aesthetic tied to the raw artistry of ceramics.
The new collection draws “inspiration from the unfiltered artistry of ceramic craftsmanship—where traditional flaws are cherished as marks of unique character,” Aberg says.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2025 Collection
This season’s designs channel the craftsmanship of ceramics, resulting in pieces celebrating irregularity, like worn textures and hand-spattered designs, capturing the unpredictability of handmade works.
Meanwhile, the color palette sets the tone—opening with sharp black, white, and grey and later unveiling earthy accents like burnt orange and cypress and subtle pastels like lilac and antique rose.
The spring lineup embraces a relaxed and fluid aesthetic. Formal and casual elements meet in unstructured silhouettes, mirroring ceramic art’s organic, flowing nature. The tailoring remains sharp, but the easygoing attitude of the collection leaves a lasting impression.
Suits, traditionally synonymous with rigidity, loosen up. They’re designed for movement, for life.
One standout? Leather biker jackets that boast a crinkled texture mirroring the surface of clay after it’s been fired. The craftsmanship doesn’t stop there.
Long, relaxed-fit coats with hand-splattered patterns invite a tactile experience. Knitwear is luxurious, but in Aberg’s hands, it’s understated.
Lightweight sweaters have distressed shoulder detailing, offering a worn-in charm. The balance of high-end and laid-back keeps the collection modern but grounded in tradition.
Knit polo shirts are tucked into trousers cinched at the waist, showing off effortless but considered styling. Italian-made two-piece suits in linen and suede follow, reinforcing the mix of structure and softness.
Even the floral jacquard prints—typically bold—arrive subdued, colored in golden apricot, lending a subtle sophistication to the collection. The John Varvatos collection culminates in a visual language of imperfect yet refined contrasts.