For its spring-summer 2024 collection, Saint Laurent has proven once again that fashion is more than just clothes. It’s a dialogue, a language of expression that captures a unique world perspective. The brain behind this sartorial prowess, Anthony Vaccarello, successfully unveiled a masterclass in modern menswear at Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie, integrating nuances from the fashion house’s womenswear line.
Exploring the concept of evolved identity, the collection felt like a breath of fresh air. It was a blend of sharp tailoring and lightweight fabrics, offering a spring-ready vibe that was both fresh and luxurious. It wasn’t just about the clothes but the mood, the story, and the men who wore them.
Mousseline de Soie, a material traditionally associated with women’s couture, is introduced to give the pieces an air of formal sensuality. The collection showcases each garment’s delicate balance of structure and flow, mirroring the designer’s vision.
Silhouettes played a significant role, from high-waisted trousers falling into perfect pleats to jersey tops worn off the shoulder. The choice to emphasize shoulders, something seen typically in womenswear, made a bold statement about challenging the boundaries of gendered clothing.
Vaccarello kept true to the Saint Laurent essence by including the brand’s coveted patent leather-heeled boots. The footwear choices complemented the outfits, keeping the overall look undeniably Saint Laurent while maintaining an air of innovation.
Adding to the flair was the inclusion of unexpected features, like white bow ties and pocket squares, a playful twist on tradition. Such details demonstrated the designer’s intent to subtly subvert the norm and present more romantic, open, and progressive fashion than ever before.