Graduate Fashion Week was last week in the UK, showing us what the most creative young minds had to say about the state of men’s fashion today. It was good to see a non-London perspective as well, with colleges from across the UK participating, and covered extensively by Fashion156, StyleSalvage and Brandish. It was a very strong year, backed by extensive media coverage, sponsorship and boosted by an ever-increasing interest and investment in menswear. Thematically, colours were muted and washed-out, with sharply-tailoured silhouettes -especially shoulders – giving a 1980s-feel to many of the designers’ outfits. Extra-long tops were also featured heavily; from cardigans and jumpers right through tailored jackets, and waistcoats.
Design-wise, Central Saint Martin’s Matthew Grant was spot-on with all of these themes; proof that simple tailoring and subtle hues out-trump novelty headgear any day. His CSM cohort Peter Bailey, came up with a colourful collection of beautifully-detailed garments, that were summery and playful, but also wearable. Elsewhere, UCA Epsom’s Soozi Welland had a lovely outdoorsy vibe, contrasting hard-wearing fabrics with florals, bowties and bright socks. Alexander James of Kingston University presented draped tailoring with lovely cerise and bright purple colour accents, all held with gorgeous block-colour pleated cummerbunds.
My final pick is River Island Menswear Award winner, Mehmet Ali, of Ravensbourne College. His pastels lodge in the brain, and the elegant but casual tailoring is beautifully executed. Loose chinos mixed with creamy knits create a look that is both summery and intriguing, but also wearable.
