Saint Laurent spring 2025 reclaims the masculine wardrobe with the resolve of a noir film hero and the flair of a 1970s cinema idol caught between takes—with a touch of 1980s exuberance looming just beneath the surface.
The collection, presented through sleek images and high-definition confidence, channels Anthony Vaccarello’s fascination with control, restraint, and the allure of tension.
Saint Laurent Spring 2025
The silhouettes? Uncompromising. Shoulders are sharpened to a cinematic point, while trousers sit high on the waist—evoking Yves Saint Laurent with a dose of Helmut Newton seduction.
For Saint Laurent, there’s a through line of defiance, from the deep black tuxedo with its voluminous pussy-bow shirt to the pinstriped chalky greys and buttercream suits worn with striped ties and concealed buttons. Spring doesn’t signal softness here; it teases with restraint.
The shirts are sheer or crepe, often dotted, sometimes paisley, always draped with calculated dishevelment. Scarves spill out like unscripted dialogue, tied with an irreverence that recalls Gainsbourg or even a young Bowie.
The success of the collection lies in its tension between discipline and indulgence. High-waisted trousers in cashmere or grain de poudre play against fluid shirts in silk charmeuse and Crepe de Chine.
The palette slips from noir to champagne to heritage browns, never loud but always deliberate. Vaccarello directs and this season, his leading men are draped, belted, and precise.
