Jim Wetzel has his finger on the pulse of American menswear. In five short years, Wetzel, 39 and his partner Lance Lawson, 37 have worked hard to grow Chicago-based Jake into a reputable name. Aiming to determine each season’s trends for the American landscape, Jake has become the style authority for publications like WWD and Men.Style. Featuring collections from both emerging and established designers, Jake caters to the client who desires a clean and modern environment that nurtures a simple but sophisticated style of dress. Wetzel, who has been in retail for the last twenty five years, takes the time to share with us this season’s trends and what to expect next season.
Q&A
The Fashionisto: What exactly does being a buyer entail?
Jim Wetzel: It really has many factors. First and most importantly, knowing who your client is. What is their lifestyle, their opinions, what is important. Second is really being a forecaster. How can I take these people and lead them forward. Lastly, it is being a merchant; When do get in / out of a trend. Is it too early for a designer for Jake, Is there something missing that my clients need?
TF: How do you best predict the key looks for each season?
JW: I take what we have seen on the runways, what guys around town are wearing, especially when we go to NYC and Paris, listed to what guys are saying and really, what I feel like I want to wear. Roll all this up and I hopefully nail the season.
TF: For me personally, I can never buy enough knits. In your opinion, what can a man never have too much of?
JW: I feel a guy can never have too many button downs. They play such a huge role of daily dressing. Have some work ones, sexy night ones, Sunday rolling around ones.. And denim. You can NEVER have enough jeans; and when you have a pair that you don’t wear anymore, cut them off, bleach them, dye them…Unleash your inner Picasso…
TF: So, how would you describe the Jake man?
JW: Cool without trying. Smart and driven, but does not want to wear his success on his sleeve. Confident, but likes things that are a bit retro and of good quality. Many of our clients are fields that they are at the top of, and some are living it daily, but the common denominator is that they are strong minded, unafraid men…
TF: What labels currently make up the Jake menswear roster?
JW: We really take the idea of what our designer assortment is very seriously. Band of Outsiders, Nice Collective, Engineered Garments, Patrik Ervell, Unis, Nudie Jeans, Tim Hamilton. These are all designers that we really believe in, know personally and have great partnerships with…
TF: And the key looks for this season?
JW: Rugged, Masculine. Getting back to basics like worn in denim, flannel shirts, thermals, boots. It’s like the lumberjack moves to the city…
TF: Favorite piece this season?
JW: I am crazy for chambray shirts. I can never get enough of them. I love the retro-sexy-work wear feel of them. We have a sick one from Michael Kors. Also, I love this fitted Band of Outsiders seersucker short sleeve button down…
TF: The fall runways shows have come and gone. Which show did you enjoy the most?
JW: I enjoy shows for the sole reason that you really get an idea of a designer’s vision. I think shows will always have a presence in Menswear, but each season there is a different intensity. I always love Tim Hamilton’s presentations: so fresh! As well, Patrik Ervell’s shows are always great. My all time favorite show was a Cloak show that was in an abandoned building in Nolita. Loud speed metal, 1000 degrees and I sat next to Carine Roitfield from Paris vogue. What could be better…
TF: Has the recession affected your picks for next season?
JW: Definitely, but the guy wants to collect and look good. I have brought in easier price points and moved away from certain categories, like blazers, unless they are totally killer.
TF: Expecting any new labels for the fall season?
JW: I’m really psyched about Burkman Brothers. Their take on rugged sportswear is fantastic! Plaids that have sex appeal, lined chinos that ever guy would die to have, unreal washed fabrics. Also, Yigal Azrouel for Fall really rocks. His take on the uber-cool bohemian dude is right on. I can’t wait to get my personals!
TF: In closing, what are you leaning towards for the upcoming season?
JW: Plaid. Plain & simple. There is a bright colored Burkman Brothers’ button down that is worn, washed and terribly sexy.
Jim Wetzel and Lance Lawson do not pay the designers they buy off and are your basic thieves. I sure when all the lawsuits come through they will be out of business by fall 09.
Jim Wetzel and Lance Lawson do not pay the designers they buy off and are your basic thieves. I sure when all the lawsuits come through they will be out of business by fall 09.
Emma – see today ( july 16) story in the New York Times on your comment….I believe the title of the article is, “the Trouble with Jake”. It’s in the Style section of the newspaper.
Emma – see today ( july 16) story in the New York Times on your comment….I believe the title of the article is, “the Trouble with Jake”. It’s in the Style section of the newspaper.
yes, they're officially in chapter 11. it's been confirmed.
yes, they're officially in chapter 11. it's been confirmed.